Page 319 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

Pyin OO Lwin and arOund NortherN MyaNMar 317
leading south from the Mandalay–Lashio Road into the wealthier suburbs and the
richest seams of colonial buildings. Of note is the half-timbered No. 4 Basic
Education High School (formerly St Michael’s, a missionary school for Anglo-
Burmese students).
Colonial government buildings were clustered on Yone Paung Sone Street. Several
fulfil similar functions today – the imposing pink brick and teak structure of the
former Survey Office is now the Myanmar Survey Training Centre, and across the road
the old Forestry Department is today’s Myanmar Forest School.
It’s also worth seeking out Candacraig and Croxton House, built in 1904 for the
Bombay Burmah Trading Company. After independence, they operated as state-run
hotels, and now they’ve been privatized they are currently closed for renovation.
Candacraig, now known as Thiri Myaing, is set in expansive grounds and expected to
re-open in 2018, and was once the “chummery” or residence for unmarried company
staff. Croxton, now Gandamar Myaing, was the manager’s home.

Chan Tak Temple
• Forest Rd • Daily 6am–6pm • Free; $1 to climb pagoda • T09 204 5570
Despite its relative newness, Chan Tak Temple is a classically styled Chinese complex,
its ornate halls and pagoda set among formal gardens and replete with flying eaves and
concrete dragons. The dining hall serves a vegetarian buffet at lunchtime (10am–1pm)
and serves drinks all day.

National Kandawgyi Gardens 8
• Nanda Rd, 4km southeast of Purcell Tower • Daily 8am–6pm (some attractions close at
5.30pm, and staff may be reluctant to let you in after 5pm) • $5 or K6000 • T085 22497
Pyin Oo Lwin’s major attraction, the National Kandawgyi Gardens were established
between 1915–17, when hundreds of Turkish prisoners of war were put to work
excavating Kandawgyi Lake and landscaping its surroundings. After independence the
park gradually deteriorated, until the Htoo Group took over in 2000 and redeveloped
it as a scenic spot.
Today, the pretty lakeside area, filled with pansies and tulips, is popular for photo
opportunities, while further on the gardens are more interesting and unkempt, with
exotic orchards, a jungly swamp walkway and behind it all a stretch of undeveloped
forest crossed by a few rough paths. The 380-acre gardens take at least two hours to
explore, and with attractions including a walk-through aviary, a large orchid nursery,
a swimming pool and an airy café overlooking the lake (coffee from K1000, juice
K1500, dishes from around K3000), it’s easy to spend half a day here. Overlooking
it all is the distinctive Nan Myint Tower, which looks a bit like an ancient oriental
helter-skelter. Go up in the lift and down by the external staircase to see the view
over Pyin Oo Lwin’s suburbs – it’s free to climb. The garden hosts a flower festival
each December.

Anisakan Falls
• Near Anisakan, 9km southwest of Pyin Oo Lwin • Free • Motorbike taxis (K5000 return) depart from
the roundabout near the Green Luck Petrol Station, or you can take a Mandalay-bound pick-up (K300) to Anisakan and walk the
remaining 2km
Just outside the village of Anisakan, the plateau on which Pyin Oo Lwin sits drops
away dramatically into a forested canyon, carved out by a tributary of the Dokhtawady
River as it plunges down Anisakan Falls (also known as the Dat Taw Gyaint waterfall)
to the valley floor. It takes 45 minutes to walk down from the road to the foot of the
falls, and a sweaty hour to hike back to the car park, but the scenery and the chance
to cool off in the jade-green plunge pools make it worthwhile.

310-355_Myanmar_B2_Ch8.indd 317 30/06/17 2:21 pm