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        Agiásos
        Αγιάσος
        ⌂ 28 km (17 miles)
        W of Mytilíni   n 22530
        71313   @
        Hidden in a forested ravine
      EXPERIENCE  The Northeast Aegean Islands  It began life in the 12th cen-    The charming village of   the coast. One of Skála’s
        beneath Mount Olympos,
        Agiásos is possibly the most
        beautiful hill-town on Lésvos.
        tury as a dependency of the
        central monastic church of the
        Panagía Vrefokratoússa, which
        was constructed to enshrine a
        miraculous icon said to have
        been painted by St Luke.
          The town expanded rapidly
                                                tavernas is named after
        in the 18th century due to the
                              Plomári, arrayed around a
                                                the mouriá or mulberry
        Ottoman Sultan exempting
                              central harbour
        the town from taxes. Little has
        changed in itsnarrow, cobbled
                                                on hot summer nights.
        lanes since then, except for
        the arrival of numerous stalls
                            Sykaminiá
        of souvenirs, which now line   q        tree in which Myrivílis slept
                                                w
        the way to the church and its   Συκαμινιά
        surrounding bazaar.                     Plomári
          The presence of shops built   ⌂ 46 km (29 miles) NW of   Πλωμάρι
        into the church’s foundations,   Mytilíni   @
        with rents going towards its   Flanked by a deep valley and   ⌂ 42 km (26 miles)
                                                SW of Mytilíni   n 22520
        upkeep, is an ancient arrange-  overlooking the straits to the
        ment. It echoes the country   Asia Minor coast, Sykaminiá     32200   @
        fair element of the traditional   is endowed with the most   Plomári’s attractive houses
        religious panigýria (festivals),   spectacular position of any   spill off the slope above its
        where pilgrims once came to   village on Mount Lepétymnos,   harbour and stretch down to
        buy and sell as well as per-  which stands at a height of   the banks of the usually dry
        form devotions.     968 m (3,176 ft).   Sedoúndas River. The houses
          Agiásos musicians are     The novelist Efstratios   date predominantly from the
        hailed as the best on Lésvos,   Stamatopoulos (1892–1969),   19th century, when Plomári
        and they are out in force   known as Stratis Myrivilis,     became wealthy as a major
        during the 15 August festival   was born close to the village’s   shipbuilding centre. Today, it
        of the Dormition of the Virgin,   atmospheric central square.   is known as the island’s “oúzo
        considered one of the liveliest   The jetty church, which fea-  capital”, with five distilleries in
        in Greece. The pre-Lenten   tured in his novel The Mermaid   operation, the most famous
        carnival is also celebrated   Madonna, can be seen down in  being Varvagiannis, which
        with verve here.    nearby Skála Sykaminiás on   runs regular tours.
                                                  The best and longest beach
                                                on Lésvos, composed of sand
          LOCAL LIQUEUR                         and light shingle, Vaterá occu-
          Oúzo is the Greek version of a spirit   pies a 7 km (4 miles) stretch of
          found throughout the Mediterranean.   the southern coast, fringed by
          The residue of grape skins left over   verdant green hills. The water
          from wine-pressing is boiled in a still   is crystal clear and shallow,
          to make a distillate called rakí. The   making it good for families.
          term oúzo means rakí flavoured with
          star anise or fennel. The alcohol
          content varies from 38 to 48 per cent,
          with 44 per cent considered the
          minimum for a quality product.               Tavernas and cafés
                                                     lining the cobbled back
                                                       streets of Mólyvos
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