Page 132 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands

9 can be seen at the south gate. years of the painter’s life.
Over the inner gate the initials
Theophilos detailed the
Mytilíni of Maria Paleologina and her fisher men, har vesters and
Μυτιλήνη husband Francesco Gatelluzi – bakers of rural Greece and
a Genoan who helped John executed creditable portraits
k 8 km (5 miles) S Paleologos take back the of personalities he met on
g @ Pávlou Kountourióti Byzantine throne – complete his travels. For his depictions
n Aristárchou 6; 22510 the resumé of the castle’s of historical episodes or land-
37040 various occupants. The site scapes beyond his experience,
EXPERIENCE The Northeast Aegean Islands The main street, Ermoú, has a Lésvos’s Archaeological steam boats in the back-
also includes the remains of
Theophilos relied purely on
Lésvos’ capital Mytilíni, on the
his imagination. The only
a Gatelluzi palace, an Islamic
site of ancient Mytilene town,
traces of the modern age are
medresse (theological school)
is a scenic town on a slope
occa sional aeroplanes or
bracketed by twin harbours.
and a der vish cell.
Museum occupies a belle
lively bazaar and, at the south
ground of his landscapes.
époque mansion and, in a
end of the street, a fish
A few steps beyond this
market selling species rarely
museum stands the Tériade
modern building nearby, is its
Museum, housing the coll-
New Archaeological Museum.
seen elsewhere. At the north
end the roofless shell of the
ection of Stratis Eleftheriadis
Star exhibits at the newer
– a local who emigrated to
Gení Tzamí mosque and the
gallery are vast mosaics from
restored bathhouse (now an
2nd- and 3rd-century Roman
Paris in the early 20th century,
villas. Neolithic finds from the
art gallery) mark the edge of
adopting the new surname of
the former Turkish quarter.
at Thermí, just north of town,
publisher of avant-garde art
The Ottomans ruled here
from 1462 to 1912 and houses
and literature. Miró, Chagall,
are in the original building.
Devoted almost entirely
Picasso, Léger and Villon were
of that era still line the narrow
some of the artists who took
to exhibiting icons, the
lanes between Ermoú and the British excavations (1929–33) Tériade. He became a noted
castle. The silhouettes of belle ecclesiastical Byzantine part in his projects.
époque churches, such as Ágii Museum has a collection
Theodóri and Ágios Therápon, ranging from the 13th to the Kástro Mytilínis
pierce the tile-roofed skyline. 18th centuries and also has a " § 22510 27790 # 8am–
Surrounded by lush pine more recent, folk-style icon by 3pm daily ¢ Main public hols
groves, Kástro Mytilínis, the Theophilos Hatzimihail,
Byzantine castle of Emperor (1873–1934), who was a prom- Archaeological Museum
Justinian (527–65), has huge, inent Mytilíni-born artist. " ⌂ Argýris Eftaliótis 7
impressive curtain walls, but The Theophilos Museum, § 22510 28032 ¢ Closed for
these were even larger during 5 km (3 miles) south, offers renovation
the Genoese era. Many of the four rooms of canvases by
ramparts and towers were Theophilos Hatzimihail. All New Archaeological
destroyed during the siege by were commissioned by his Museum
the Ottomans in 1462 – an pat ron Tériade in 1927 and " ⌂ Corner of 8 Noemvríou
Ottoman Turkish inscription created over the last seven & Melínas Merkoúri § 22510
40223 # 8am–3pm Tue–Sun
¢ Main public hols
Byzantine Museum
" ⌂ Agios Therápon
§ 22510 28916 # 9am–
1pm Mon–Sat
Theophilos Museum
" ⌂ Variá § 22510 41644
# 8:30am–2:30pm Mon–Fri
Tériade Museum
" ⌂ Variá # 8:30am–3pm
daily ∑ museumteriade.gr
A small boat moored in the
clear, reflective waters at
Mytilíni’s old harbour
132
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