Page 256 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

fells, streams and endless and is backed by a string £7.20/3.60; h11am-5pm
drystone walls. It’s worth of impressive fells. The Sat-Thu Mar-Oct) in Cock-
stopping off to see the summit of Haystacks is a ermouth. Now owned
geological oddity of the popular route: it was the by the National Trust,
Bowder Stone, a huge favourite fell of Alfred it’s been redecorated
boulder deposited by a Wainwright, who penned in period style accord-
glacier, and for a quick the definitive seven- ing to details published
hike up to the top of Cas- volume set of guidebooks in Wordsworth’s own
tle Crag, which has the of the Lake District’s fells father’s accounts: you
best views of the valley. between the 1950s and can wander round the
Then it’s up and over ’70s. It’s a two- to three- drawing room, kitchen,
the perilously steep hour return walk from pantry and garden, and
Honister Pass, where the Buttermere. see the rooms where lit-
Lake District’s last work- The Drive » From Buttermere tle Willie and his brother
ing slate mine (%017687- village, bear left on the B5289 John slept.
77230; www.honister-slate signed towards Loweswater Cockermouth is also
-mine.co.uk; mine tour adult/ and Crummock Water, which the home of local beer-
child £12.50/7.50; htours continues into the Lorton Valley. maker Jennings Brewery
10.30am, 12.30pm & 3.30pm At Low Lorton, stay on the (%01900-821011; www.
Mar-Oct) is still doing a B5289, which continues 4 miles jenningsbrewery.co.uk; adult/
thriving trade. You can to Cockermouth. Total distance: child £9/4.50; hguided tours
take a guided tour down 11 miles. 1.30pm Wed-Sat), where
GREAT BRITAIN 18 CLASSIC LAKES
into the mine or brave you can take a guided
the heights along the 7 Cockermouth tour and learn about
stomach-upsetting Via the brewing process,
Ferrata, and pick up slate Grasmere might be then sample a couple
souvenirs in the shop. Wordsworth central, but of ales such as Cocker
Nearby Buttermere completists will want to Hoop and the excellently
has a sparkling twinset visit the poet’s childhood named Sneck Lifter. Just
of lakes, Buttermere home (NT; %01900- a snifter, mind – you’re
and Crummock Water, 824805; Main St; adult/child driving, after all.
The Drive » Head west on the
A66 and detour onto the A595,
DETOUR: which tracks the coast all the
WHINLATTER way to Whitehaven. To reach
FOREST PARK Wasdale (35 miles all up), turn
off at Gosforth, and then follow
Start: 6 Buttermere (p253) signs to Nether Wasdale and
Encompassing 1200 hectares of pine, larch and Wasdale Head. It’s quite easy to
miss the turning, so keep your
spruce, Whinlatter (www.forestry.gov.uk/whinlatter) is eyes peeled; sat-navs can be
England’s only true mountain forest, rising sharply very unreliable here.
to 790m about 5 miles from Keswick. The forest is
a designated red squirrel reserve; you can check TRIP HIGHLIGHT
out live video feeds from squirrel cams at the visitor
centre. It’s also home to two exciting mountain-bike 8 Wasdale
trails and a tree-top assault course. You can hire Wild Wasdale is argu-
bikes next to the visitor centre. ably the most dramatic
To get to Whinlatter Forest Park from Buttermere, valley in the national
look out for the right turn onto the B5292 at Low park. Carving its way for
Lorton, which climbs up to Whinlatter Pass. 5 miles from the coast,

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