Page 258 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

take breaks – you need the counties of Cumber- hikers, but it’s perhaps
to keep your focus on the land, Westmorland and best known for the world
road ahead. Lancashire histori- speed record attempts
From Eskdale, the cally met. Then it’s a slow made here by father and
road ascends via a descent down through son Malcolm and Donald
series of very sharp, hairpins and corners to Campbell between the
steep switchbacks to the the packhorse Slaters 1930s and 1960s. Though
remains of Hardknott Bridge and on into the they jointly broke many
Fort, a Roman outpost valley of Little Langdale. records, in 1967 Donald
where you can still see Phew! You made it. was tragically killed
the remains of some of The Drive » Once you reach during an attempt in his
the walls. Soon after you Little Langdale, follow the road jet-boat Bluebird; the lit-
reach Hardknott Pass at east until you reach the A593, tle Ruskin Museum (www.
393m (1289ft). The vistas the main road between Skelwith ruskinmuseum.com; adult/
here are magnificent: Bridge and Coniston. Turn right child £6/3; h10am-5.30pm
you’ll be able to see all and follow it for 5 miles. Easter–mid-Nov, 10.30am-
the way to the coast on 3.30pm Wed-Sun mid-Nov–
a clear day. Next you’ll Easter) has the full story.
drop down into Cockley b Coniston Coniston Water is also
Beck before continuing South of Ambleside, the said to have been the
the climb up to Wrynose old mining village of inspiration for Arthur
GREAT BRITAIN 18 CLASSIC LAKES
Pass (393m/1289ft). Near Coniston is dominated Ransome’s classic chil-
the summit is a small by its hulking fell, the dren’s tale, Swallows and
car park containing the Old Man of Coniston, an Amazons. The best way
Three Shire Stone, where ever-popular objective for to explore is aboard the
Steam Yacht Gondola (NT;
%015394-63850; www.
HILL TOP nationaltrust.org.uk/steam-
yacht-gondola; Coniston
Two miles from Hawkshead in the tiny village of Near Jetty; half lake adult/child
Sawrey, the idyllic cottage at Hill Top (NT; %015394- return £11/5.50, full lake adult/
36269; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hill-top; adult/child £10/5, child/family £21.50/10/51),
admission to garden & shop free; hhouse 10am-5.30pm a beautifully restored
Mon-Thu, 10am-4.30pm Fri-Sun, garden 10am-5.45pm steam yacht built in 1859.
Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri-Sun) is the most famous house It travels over the lake
in the whole of the Lake District. It belonged to to the stately home of
Beatrix Potter, and was used as inspiration for many Brantwood (%015394-
of her tales: the house features directly in Samuel 41396; www.brantwood.org.uk;
Whiskers, Tom Kitten, Pigling Bland and Jemima adult/child £7.50/free, gardens
Puddleduck, and you will doubtless recognise the only £4.95/free; h10.30am-
kitchen garden from Peter Rabbit. 5pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov, to 4pm
Following her death in 1943, Beatrix bequeathed Wed-Sun mid-Nov–mid-Mar),
Hill Top (along with more than 4000 acres of land) to owned by the Victorian
the National Trust, with the proviso that the house be polymath, critic, painter
left with her belongings and decor untouched. The and inveterate collector
house formed the centrepiece for celebrations to John Ruskin. The house
mark the author’s 150th birthday in 2016. is packed with furniture
Entry is by timed ticket; it’s very, very popular, so and crafts, and the gar-
try visiting in late afternoon or on weekdays to avoid dens are glorious.
the worst crowds.
4 p259

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