Page 358 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

range of classes in dance the low cliffs, coves country villages where
and music; it’s also an and isolated beaches. A people go about their
archive and library of classically friendly place business barely notic-
Irish traditional music, in the chatty Irish way, ing the characterful
song, dance and folklore. Miltown Malbay hosts buildings lining Main St.
Traditional music aficio- the annual Willie Clancy And behind this facade
nados might like to time Summer School, one there’s a surprise: the
a visit with Fleadh Nua of Ireland’s great trad roaring Cascades, the
(www.fleadhnua.com), a music events. O’Friel’s stepped falls of the River
lively festival held in late Bar (Lynch’s; The Square; Inagh. After heavy rain
May. h2pm-midnight Sun-Wed, they surge, beer-brown
6pm-1am Thu-Sat) is one and foaming, and you
54 p312, p361
of a couple of genuine risk getting drenched
The Drive » From the N85 old-style places with on windy days in the
that runs south of The Burren, occasional trad sessions. flying drizzle. Not to be
you’ll meet the smaller R460 The other is the dapper missed, Eugene’s (Main St;
at the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Hillery’s (Main St; hnoon- h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu,
village of Inagh. Here you’ll find 12.30am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am 10.30am-12.30am Fri-Sat,
the Biddy Early Brewery, which Fri-Sat). 12.30-11pm Sun) is intimate
sells a draught ale, Red Biddy,
made using local Burren plants The Drive » Hugging the and cosy and has a
and seaweeds for flavouring. coast, continue north until trademark collection of
Refuelled, it’s a straight run into you come to the small seaside visiting cards cover-
IRELAND 26 MuSICAL LANDSCAPES
Miltown Malbay. resort of Lahinch, more or less ing its walls, alongside
a single street backing a wide photographs of famous
beach renowned for its surfing. writers and musicians.
3 Miltown Malbay From here, it’s only 4km up the The inspiring collection
Miltown Malbay was road to the lovely heritage town of whiskey (Irish) and
a resort favoured by of Ennistymon. whisky (Scottish) will
well-to-do Victorians, have you smoothly debat-
though the beach itself TRIP HIGHLIGHT ing their relative merits.
is 2km south at Span- 4 Ennistymon Another great old pub is
ish Point. To the north Ennistymon (Inis Cooley’s House (%065-
of the Point, there are Díomáin) is one of those 707 1712; Main St; h10.30am-
beautiful walks amid 11pm Mon-Sat, noon-11.30pm
Sun), with music most
nights in summer and on
THE PIED PIPER Wednesday (trad night)
in winter.
Half the population of Miltown Malbay seems to
be part of the annual Willie Clancy Irish Summer 4 p361
School (%065-708 4148; www.scoilsamhraidhwillieclancy. The Drive » Heading north
com; hJul), a tribute to a native son and one of through a patchwork of green
Ireland’s greatest pipers. The eight-day festival, now fields and stony walls on the
in its fourth decade, begins on the first Saturday in R481, you’ll land at the tiny
July, when impromptu sessions occur day and night, village of Kilfenora, some 9km
later. Despite its diminutive size,
the pubs are packed and Guinness is consumed by the pulse of Clare’s music scene
the barrel – up to 10,000 enthusiasts from around beats strongly in this area.
the globe turn up for the event. Specialist workshops
and classes underpin the event; don’t be surprised to
attend a recital with 40 noted fiddlers.

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