Page 361 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

festival. Posh during Victorian
times, the town is more down
at heel today, but friendly,
good-looking and far less
overrun than Doolin.

6 Lisdoonvarna
NEIL SETCHFIELD/GETTY IMAGES ©
Lisdoonvarna (Lios Dún
Bhearna), often just called
‘Lisdoon’, is well known
for its mineral springs.
For centuries people have
been visiting the local
spa to swallow its waters.
Down by the river at
Roadside Tavern (www. IRELAND 26 MuSICAL LANDSCAPES
roadsidetavern.ie; Kincora Rd;
mains €11.50-20; hnoon-4pm
& 6-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-9pm Sat,
noon-8pm Sun), third-
generation owner Peter
Curtin knows every story
worth telling. There are
trad sessions daily in
summer. Look for a trail
beside the pub that runs
400m down to two wells
by the river. One is high
in sulphur, the other
iron. Mix and match for a
cocktail of minerals. Next
door, Burren Smokehouse
(%065-707 4432; www.burren
smokehouse.ie; Kincora Rd;
h9am-7pm May-Aug, 9am-6pm
Apr, 10am-5pm Mar & Sep-Oct,
shorter hrs winter; p) is
where you can learn about
the ancient Irish art of
oak-smoking salmon.
The Drive » Just under 10
minutes’ drive west of here is the
epicentre of Clare’s trad music
scene, at Doolin. Also known for
its setting – 6km north of the
Cliffs of Moher – what’s called
Doolin is really three small
neighbouring villages. There’s
Fisherstreet, right on the water,
Doolin itself, about 1km east
on the little River Aille, and
Roadford, another 1km east.
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