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Eating & Sleeping


                                       married Dylan Thomas. With 140 modern
          Galway City 1                rooms and a large, enclosed pool, the hotel’s
                                       view of the Cascades from the entrance steps
          4 Heron’s Rest        B&B €€  is breathtaking, and there are 20 hectares of
          (%091-539 574; www.theheronsrest.com;   wooded gardens.
          16a Longwalk; s/d from €80/140; W)  Ideally
          located in a lovely row of houses on the banks of
          the Corrib, the thoughtful hosts here give you   Doolin 7
          deck chairs so you can sit outside and enjoy the    Inn €€
          scene. Other touches include holiday-friendly   4 Cullinan’s Guesthouse
          breakfast times (8am to 11am), decanters of   (%065-707 4183; www.cullinansdoolin.com; d
          port (enough for a glass or two) and more.   from €100; pW) Owned by well-known fiddle-
          Rooms are small and cute, with double-glazed    playing James Cullinan, the eight rooms at this
          windows and water views.     smart place on the River Aille are very good-   IRELAND 26 MuSICAL LANDSCAPES
                                       looking, with power showers and comfortable
                                       fittings. A couple of rooms are slightly smaller
          Ennis 2                      than the others, but are right on the water.
                                       There’s a lovely back terrace for enjoying the
          5 Zest                 Cafe €  views.
          (www.zestfood.ie; Market Pl; meals €5-10;
          h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun)
          Zest combines a deli, bakery, shop and cafe.   Inishmór 8
          Excellent prepared foods from the region are       B&B €€
          offered along with salads, soups and much   4 Man of Aran Cottage
          more. It’s ideal for a coffee or lunch.  (%099-61301; www.manofarancottage.com;
                                       Kilmurvey; s/d from €55/80; hMar-Oct) Built
          4 Old Ground Hotel   Hotel €€  for the 1930s film of the same name, this
          (%065-682 8127; www.flynnhotels.com;   thatched B&B doesn’t trade on past glories –
          O’Connell St; s/d from €120/150; piW) A   its authentic stone-and-wood interiors define
          seasoned, charming and congenial space of   charming. The owners are avid organic
          polished floorboards, cornice-work, antiques   gardeners (the tomatoes are famous) and their
          and open fires, the lobby is always a scene:   bounty can become your meal (mains €22).
          old friends sinking into sofas, deals cut at
          the tables, and ladies from the neighbouring
          church’s altar society exchanging gossip over   Inisheer 9
          tea. Parts of this smart and rambling landmark
          date back to the 1800s. The 83 rooms vary   4 Fisherman’s Cottage &
          greatly in size and decor – don’t hesitate to   South Aran House   B&B €€
          inspect a few. On balmy days, retire to tables   (%099-75073; www.southaran.com; Castle
          on the lawn.                 Village; s/d €49/80; hApr-Oct; W) Slow-food
                                       enthusiasts run this sprightly B&B and cafe
                                       that’s a mere five-minute walk from the pier;
          Ennistymon 4                 look for the lavender growing in profusion at
                                       the entrance. Meals (dinner mains €12 to €20)
          4 Falls Hotel        Hotel €€  celebrate local seafood and organic produce.
          (%065-707 1004; www.fallshotel.ie; off N67;   Nonguests can enjoy cakes by day and dinner at
          r from €95; pWs) Built on the ruins of an   night, but will need to book. Rooms are simple
          O’Brien castle, this handsome and sprawling   yet stylish. Kayaking and fishing are among the
          Georgian house was once Ennistymon House,   activities on offer.
          the family home of Caitlín MacNamara, who

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