Page 117 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 10: Loughs and Lighthouses 115

Above left Motor cruisers in Portumna
3 Mountshannon Marina, a popular springboard for boating on
Co Clare Brian Boru the Shannon Above The 17th-century bridge
Picturesque Mountshannon has an King of Munster and High King of linking the twin towns of Ballina and Killaloe
Ireland, Brian Boru is credited with
elevated position overlooking uniting Ireland’s clans and routing
Lough Derg. Long and linear, it was the Vikings. Born in Killaloe, he
conceived as a plantation town, earned his nickname Brian of the
intended for Protestant settlers; even Tribute (Boru), for the tributes he EAT AND DRINK
by the 1830s it didn’t have a single exacted, used mainly to rebuild
Catholic resident. Today it is a good monasteries ransacked by the AROUND PORTUMNA
base for exploring the surrounding Vikings. In 1014 – at the ripe old Paddy’s Bar inexpensive
age of 74 – the great warrior was
area and is popular with anglers. slain by a Viking as he prayed in his Congenial spot for good steaks,
burgers, fish and chips, and seafood
Solid 18th-century cottages line the tent at the Battle of Clontarf. chowder. See website for directions.
harbour, and it has several good Terryglass; 067 22147;
pubs, including Cois na h’Abhna bar www.paddysbar.ie
on Main Street (see right), which 4 Killaloe Derg Inn moderate
sometimes holds traditional music Co Clare and Co Tipperary Laid-back bar with comforting food in
sessions in summer. Information on The twin towns of Killaloe and Ballina the pretty village of Terryglass, 12 km
angling can be obtained in any of are actually in different counties, but (7 miles) from Portumna (head south
the town’s tackle shops. they face one another on opposite on the N65; turn right onto the R493).
Terryglass; 067 22037;
Boats to Holy Island, just 2 km banks of the River Shannon, linked by www.thederginn.ie
(1 mile) offshore, in Scarriff Bay, leave a 17th-century bridge. Killaloe is the
from the pier (see left). St Caimin more interesting of the two. Brian Boru, MOUNTSHANNON
founded a monastery on the island the High King of Ireland, was born Cois na h’Abhna inexpensive
in the 7th century. The ruins include here and built his palace, Kincora, on Popular local pub known for its music
monastic cells, five churches and 80 the site of the Catholic church at the sessions (Sat & Sun eves). Sit in the
beer garden in summer or by an open
marked graves pre-dating the 12th top of the hill. It was the centre of fire in winter.
century. Dominating the island is an power in Ireland until his death at the Main St; 061 927 189
80-m (260-ft) high round tower. Battle of Clontarf in 1014. Learn more KILLALOE AND BALLINA
The island has been a draw for about this totemic Irish figure at the
both pilgrims and plunderers Brian Boru Heritage Centre (see left) Ponte Vecchio inexpensive
through the centuries. Lured by the on the bridge over the Shannon. Italian deli and wine store. Eat in, grab
a coffee or stock up for a picnic.
prospect of monastic wealth, the The other building of note is Royal Parade House, Killaloe;
Vikings ransacked the island in 836 Flannan’s Cathedral, dating from 061 622 845; closed Mon
and again in 922. It is also associated around 1182, on Royal Parade at the Wooden Spoon Café inexpensive
with Brian Boru, the powerful High bottom of the hill. Inside, look for the Freshly baked foods including
King of Ireland (“Ard Ria”). His brother Romanesque doorway, the Thorgrim scrumptious sausage rolls. Takeaway
Marcan, an abbot, is said to have Stone, a bilingual rarity inscribed bakery upstairs.
rebuilt one of the island’s churches with both Nordic runes and Ogham 5 Abbey St, Killaloe; 061 622 2415
on the orders of Boru. markings, and the 13th-century font. AROUND KILLALOE
ª Follow the R352 along the Ballina has less to offer in the way Larkin’s Lakeside Pub and
lakeshore as far as Tuamgraney, of historical sites, but has a pleasant Restaurant inexpensive
bypassing Scarriff, and carry on riverside and a lively pub scene. Landmark pub on the Tipperary shore
along the lake, now on the R463, ª From Killaloe, cross the bridge into of Lough Derg. Wide choice of dishes,
from fish chowders to T-bone steaks.
into Killaloe. It is possible to swim Ballina and take the R494 south until Renowned for its music sessions.
in the lough at Two Mile Gate, and it meets the M7. Turn right onto the Garrykennedy (turn left at Portroe,
walk in Cragg Wood. In Killaloe, M7 and leave at junction 29, following 13 km/8 miles north of Ballina on the
park on the street. the signs to Limerick. R494); 067 23232; www.larkins/.ie
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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