Page 120 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

118 BACK ROADS IRELAND

different figures in Irish history.
Eamon de Valera, one of the leaders
of the 1916 uprising, founder of the
Irish Free State and keen advocate of
Catholic values, was a colossal figure
in post-independent Ireland. Vic
Loving, performer, actress, and
impresario was also a famous male
impersonator. The de Valera Museum
is also home to the Bruree Heritage
Centre recounting the town’s history.
Across the road, the Genesius
Above Kilmallock’s Dominican Friary, a Theatrical Museum – a hidden gem –
testament to the town’s medieval prosperity 8 Kilmallock includes costumes from 1860, posters,
Co Limerick old programmes, photographs and
In medieval times Kilmallock was one other memorabilia. Vic Loving’s
of the most important towns in granddaughter runs the museum;
Munster. But from the mid-17th entry is free but donations are
century, having suffered badly in the gratefully accepted.
WHERE TO STAY confederation wars of 1641, it went ª Return to the stone bridge and
into decline, and it never really turn right, follow the R518 to
KILMALLOCK recovered. Nevertheless, it is one of Ballingarry (18 km/11 miles) and then
Flemingstone House moderate the most intact medieval towns in turn right onto the R519 for Adare.
Award-winning farmhouse Ireland. A substantial portion of the Park by the village green.
accommodation at the base of the old walls survive, as well as John’s
Ballyhoura Mountains, on the R512 Gate and Blossom Gate. Notable Irish Coffee
about 3 km (2 miles) south of
Killmallock, in an elegant house with buildings include the 13th-century Irish coffee, almost as symbolic of
period furnishings and five bedrooms Collegiate Church of Saints Peter and Ireland as a shamrock or harp, was
overlooking the surrounding Paul, and down by the river the invented in the 1940s by Joseph
countryside. Sumptuous breakfasts. Dominican Friary, attacked and Sheridan, head chef at Foynes
Dinner on request. Complimentary destroyed by Cromwellian forces International Airport, forerunner of
scones, tea and coffee on arrival. Shannon Airport. During World War
Kilmallock; 063 98093; under Lord Inchiquin in 1648. The II all transatlantic flights flew under
www.flemingstown.com Ballyhoura Heritage Centre (open the cover of darkness and this
Mon–Fri) near the Friary is home to invigorating concoction of black
AROUND KILMALLOCK the Friar’s Gate Theatre and coffee, cream and Irish whiskey
Old Bank House inexpensive Kilmallock Museum (open Apr–Oct: warmed up chilly passengers
Pleasant family-run B&B in a former daily), which traces the history of the before they set off. The drink gained
bank building in the village of Bruff, further favour in 1950s Los Angeles.
just off the R512 between Lough Gur town in the 19th and 20th centuries.
and Kilmallock. Two rooms have four- Daily tours of Kilmallock leave from
poster beds. outside the museum at 2pm.
Bruff; 061 389 969; www.theoldbank.ie ª From Kilmallock drive to the top of
AROUND BRUREE the town and turn right onto the R518
Echo Lodge moderate–expensive towards Bruree (6 km/4 miles). Drive
This is a spacious Victorian country through the centre of Bruree and just
residence that was converted from a before the road swings left over a stone
19th-century convent. Set in extensive bridge veer right and park across the
gardens, it is also home to the highly road from an old school house.
acclaimed Mustard Seed Restaurant.
Non-residents welcome to dine by
reservation. Overlooks Ballingarry, on 9 Bruree
the R519, 13 km (8 miles) south of Adare. Co Limerick
Ballingarry; 069 68508; The market town of Bruree has two
www.mustardseed.ie main attractions, both on the
ADARE outskirts of town, facing one another
Dunraven Arms Hotel off the road to Ballingarry. They are Above Kilmallock’s beautifully kept 13th-century
moderate–expensive the Eamon de Valera Museum (closed Collegiate Church of Saints Peter and Paul
Established in 1792 and still retaining Mon), in the school where de Valera
the ambience of a country inn. was educated, and the Genesius 0 Adare
Though luxurious, it has a lovely
informal elegance. Theatrical Museum (visits by Co Limerick
Main St; 061 605 900; appointment, 087 926 8481) dedicated With its thatched cottages and
www.dunravenhotel.com to Vic Loving. They were two very spruce green, Adare prides itself on
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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