Page 119 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 10: Loughs and Lighthouses 117

on the treaty and the stone came to turn are the ruins of the old church of
symbolize hatred of English rule. Just Tempall Nua (New Church) and further
along on the right is Curragower along on the right Giant’s Grave, a
Seafood Bar q, renowned for its Irish megalithic wedge tomb. Follow signs
oysters. Continue along the river as far to Lough Gur and the visitor centre.
as Sarsfield Bridge w and cross back
to the east bank. Go down the first set 7 Lough Gur
of steps on the left to Honan’s Quay, Co Limerick
leading to Arthur’s Quay Park, which Horseshoe-shaped and cupped in
has a great view of the castle. Follow the limestone hills, Lough Gur is one
Arthur’s Quay back to the car park. of Ireland’s richest archaeological
ª From the car park, turn right onto sites. The whole area is dotted with
Patrick Street, left up William Street megalithic remains, including burial
and Upper William Street, and veer chambers and ring forts. When the
right along Roborough Street. Take lough was partially drained in the Above The old stone mill in the market town
the first exit off the roundabout and at 19th century many artifacts were of Bruree, near Kilmallock
the next roundabout take the R512 for revealed, the most significant of
Lough Gur and Killmallock. Grange which was the magnificent Lough
Stone Circle is 20 km (12 miles) from Gur Shield, dating from 700 BC (now
Limerick. Park in the lay-by in front in the National Museum in Dublin).
of the entrance. Many other finds are in the Hunt
Museum in Limerick (see left).
On the shores of the lake are the
ruins of two castles, both of which
once stood on islands in the lake:
15th-century Bourchier’s Castle, near
the car park, and on the far side of
the lake ivy-mantled Black Castle,
dating from the 13th century, where
the Earls of Desmond periodically
resided. (It can be reached along a
path on the east side of the lake.)
Overlooking the lake, in two
replica Neolithic huts, the Heritage
Above A sheltered backwater on Lough Gur, an Centre (open daily) sheds light on
area rich in archaeological sites the history of the area with exhibits
and information boards. It also sells EAT AND DRINK IN LIMERICK
6 Grange Stone Circle light refreshments. CITY
Co Limerick ª Return to Holycross and rejoin the The French Table
Though not as imposing as R512, following signs to Kilmallock inexpensive–moderate
Stonehenge in the UK, Grange Stone (15 km/9 miles). On reaching This fancy riverside restaurant produces
Circle packs a significant punch, not Kilmallock, take an immediate right stunning plates such as civet of rabbit
and Atlantic hake in a prawn bisque.
least because of its isolation. Dating after John’s Gate and park in the Steamboat Quay; 061 609 274;
from 2000 BC, the ring consists of public car park. www.frenchtable.ie; closed Mon
113 standing stones and has an The Locke Bar inexpensive–moderate
internal diameter of 46 m (150 ft), Reputedly Limerick’s oldest pub
making it Ireland’s largest stone (1724), Lockes has a lovely location
circle. In Irish it is called Lios na Grainsi overlooking the Abbey River. During
(Stones of the Sun), suggesting that the summer a barbecue is served on
it had a ritualistic function. The the terrace out front. Also worth a try
is the Oyster House and Seafood Bar.
largest stone, the Rounach Croim Relaxed and informal.
Dubh (Prominent Black Stone), is 3 George’s Quay; 061 413 733;
over 2 m (6 ft) high and weighs 40 www.lockebar.com
tons. Entrance to the site is free, but Curragower Seafood Bar moderate
visitors are asked to leave a small Cosy, unpretentious seafood bar with
contribution in the donation box. a loyal following. Choose from chowder,
ª Continue in same direction on the crab claws, sea bass, salmon, oysters
and much more. Winter months:
R512 and turn left at Holycross, where weekends only.
Lough Gur is signposted (5 km/3 miles) Above Grange Stone Circle, a remote and Clancy’s Strand; 061 321 788;
left. On the left immediately after the atmospheric spot shaded by oak trees www.curragower.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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