Page 121 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 10: Loughs and Lighthouses 119

being Ireland’s prettiest village. In q Foynes
fact, the beautification of this estate Co Limerick
village was the personal project of During the late 1930s and early
the third Earl of Dunraven. An 1940s this sleepy port overlooking
“improving landlord”, he wished to the Shannon estuary was the focal
create a bucolic haven and indulge point of transatlantic air travel. On
his passion for early Irish architecture. 9 July 1939, Pan Am’s luxury flying
For a village intended to be an boat, the Yankee Clipper, landed at
Irish idyll, it feels quite English. Foynes, the first direct commercial
Nonetheless, it is hard to resist its passenger flight between the
quaint charm. It has an array of United States and Europe. In the
medieval buildings, including three centre of town, the Flying Boat
monasteries, two in use and the Museum (open daily mid-Mar–mid-Nov)
third a ruin. In the middle of the recreates these pioneering days.
village the Heritage Centre (open See the original terminal building, Above The Blue Door Restaurant in Adare, a
daily) runs guided tours (Jun–Sep) of the radio and weather room, an early village beautified by the Earl of Dunraven
15th-century Desmond Castle. Next commercial passenger plane and a
to the centre is the 15th-century 1940s tea room. Foynes is also where
Catholic parish church, Irish coffee was invented.
once part of the Trinitarian ª Turn left from the car
Abbey, which has an park and drive along the
unusual stone dovecote. N69 to Tarbert. A roadside
Just south of the river, picnic spot near Foynes
an Augustinian Friary is offers good views of the
now an Anglican church estuary and access to a EAT AND DRINK IN ADARE
and school (limited access forest walk.
after 3pm). On the golf Blue Door Restaurant moderate
course beyond the castle, w Tarbert Bistro-style restaurant in archetypal
the Franciscan Friary has Co Limerick thatched cottage. Also serves morning
a fine cloister and the Thatched cottage in The N69 between coffee and, in summer, afternoon tea
tombs of the Desmonds picture-perfect Adare Foynes and Tarbert is in the pretty cottage garden.
Church View; 061 396 481;
(permission to visit from one of the best riverside www.bluedooradare.com
the clubhouse). Adare drives in Ireland, with
Manor, ancestral home of the Earls sweeping views of the estuary and The Wild Geese Restaurant
moderate
of Dunraven, is now a luxury hotel. Tarbert Lighthouse. In Tarbert itself, Acclaimed restaurant in cottage
ª Take the N21 west towards the Tarbert Bridewell Courthouse setting. Uses locally sourced meat, fish
Newcastle West. Four km (2 miles) and Jail (open daily) recreates the and cheese and organic vegetables.
after the turn for Rathkeale take the plight of early 19th-century convicts. Renowned for its seafood, such as
Castletownbere scallops and Atlantic
R523 to Ardagh and then the R521 for The town also operates regular car cod with crabmeat.
Foynes (14 km/9 miles). Park at the ferries across the Shannon to Killimer Rose Cottage, Main St; 061 396 451;
Flying Boat Museum in the centre. in County Clare. www.thewild-geese.com; closed Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Portumna and Limerick are ideal bases the Blue Door (see above), before
Spend a leisurely day on Lough Derg for these day trips. returning to Limerick.
enjoying simple lakeside pleasures, Limerick Loop Follow the drive instructions from
explore the many sites around Spend a morning exploring Limerick to Adare and return to the city
Limerick or take the lovely drive medieval and Georgian Limerick 5, on the N21.
along the River Shannon.
visiting the eclectic Hunt Museum,
Messing about on the Lake the Cathedral and King John’s Castle, Foynes to Tarbert
Combine a lovely riverside drive with
For boating, swimming and riverside then have lunch at Curragower a picnic, a forest walk and visits to
drinking and eating, concentrate on Seafood Bar (see p117). Afterwards two museums – the Flying Boat
Portumna 1 at the northern tip of head out to Grange Stone Circle 6 Museum at Foynes q and the
Lough Derg. There are bathing spots and Lough Gur 7, a peaceful lake Tarbert Bridewell Courthouse and
and a marina, as well as forest walks and valley packed with megalithic Jail in Tarbert w.
and Portumna Castle and Gardens to sites. From there, drive on to
explore. At the end of the day, drive Kilmallock 8, a medieval gem, and From Limerick take the N69 direct to
to Garrykennedy for dinner in then to Adare 0, Ireland’s prettiest Foynes, then follow the drive
lakeside Larkin’s (see p115). village, stopping for afternoon tea at instructions to Tarbert.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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