Page 44 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

42 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Kinsale ª Turn back along the L3233 and
Co Cork turn left onto the R604, passing two
Kinsale is a pretty town set around a Blue Flag beaches at Garrylucas and
harbour, with narrow streets full of Garretstown. Turn left, passing by
small, eye-catching shops. Kinsale Ballinspittle. At crossroads continue
also has a reputation for fine food on R600, then turn left onto N71
and gourmet dining, with plenty of (Convent Rd), entering Clonakilty.
atmospheric restaurants and pubs Go straight across roundabout at the
and gourmet-themed events. The edge of town, down to the harbour.
tourist office is a good place to start
exploring the town, with some great 3 Clonakilty
craft shops nearby. Desmond Castle Co Cork
in Cork Street, built in around 1500, Clonakilty is a delightful heritage
has been used as a Spanish arsenal town that is a pleasure to explore,
and a prison, and is now a wine with colourful and traditional shop
museum (open Easter–Sep: daily). On fronts whose hand-painted, old-style
Above Traditional shop sign in Clonakilty leaving town the road passes the signs reveal their contents, such as
17th-century, star-shaped Charles Knitwell Wools, Quirky Kitchen and
Fort, its two huge bastions Harrington’s Original Recipe Black
overlooking the estuary. This lovely Pudding. Spiller’s Lane is a pretty,
stretch of waterway is the venue for enclosed lane lined with little shops
international sailing events. and galleries. The town is also a
ª Take the coast road past Kinsale major centre for live music.
Yacht Club and cross the river at the The Michael Collins Centre (open
VISITING KINSALE
bridge, following the R600. At the mid-Jun–mid-Sep: Mon–Sat; otherwise
junction with the R604, turn left. Then for groups only) tells the story of the
Parking
Pay-and-display in the car park next to turn left again at the Speckled Door famous Irish patriot, who was born
the Tourist Office and along Pier Road. pub onto the L3233 for Old Head. here. The town centre features a
Free car parks on Church Square and memorial to him; there is also a
New Road. 2 Old Head of Kinsale garden commemorating John F
Tourist Information Co Cork Kennedy, whose ancestors came
Pier Road; 021 477 2234; This is the nearest point to the spot from the town. The West Cork Model
www.kinsale.ie where the Lusitania was sunk by a Railway Village (open daily) is great for
German U-boat in 1915. It is possible children: four miniature West Cork
to drive out to see the Old Head villages linked by a 1940s-era model
WHERE TO STAY lighthouse from a distance, but the of the now-closed local railway line.
surrounding land is privately owned ª From the harbour, leave town with
KINSALE by a golf club and therefore not the bay on the left. On reaching a
Acton’s Hotel moderate open to visitors. There is an ongoing Y-junction, take the right-hand fork,
This is an old favourite in an excellent
location near the harbour. Enjoy the campaign to restore public access then continue straight on at the next
lively bar and restaurant, or relax and but, for now, it is a lovely drive and junction, following the road down to
admire sea views from the gardens. worth the trip to admire the setting. Inchydoney Beach and Island.
Pier Road; 021 477 9900;
www.actonshotelkinsale.com; closed Below Tranquil estuary of the River Bandon, just outside Kinsale
Christmas
The Old Presbytery moderate
This is an atmospheric former
presbytery, dating back to the early
1800s. Rooms are traditional but
comfortable and some have brass
and iron beds and claw-foot baths.
Cork Street; 021 477 2027;
www.oldpres.com
INCHYDONEY ISLAND
Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa
expensive
This resort spa has rooms and
apartments with sea views. Short break
packages, with accommodation and
treatments included, are popular.
023 883 3143; www.inchydoneyisland.
com; closed 24–26 Dec

042-049_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 42 12/09/17 2:28 pm