Page 47 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 2: Islands and Lighthouses 45

It’s a steep climb, and it is dangerous Fastnet Rock
to visit the Beacon in high winds. Fastnet Lighthouse, 7 km (4.5 miles)
ª Follow the R595 all the way from out in the Atlantic from Cape Clear
Baltimore to Skibbereen. Island, is visible from much of West
Cork’s coastline, and is the tallest
and widest lighthouse in Ireland
0 Skibbereen and Great Britain. The Rock is
Co Cork Ireland’s most southerly point, and
The busy town of Skibbereen has is the rounding marker for the
strong ties to the Great Famine of the gruelling Fastnet yacht race.
1840s, which devastated the local
community. There is a large famine
graveyard at Abbystrowry, nearby. seen across a lovely sound. Ships
The Heritage Centre (open mid-Mar– stocked up on provisions here before
mid-May & Oct: Tue–Sun; mid-May–Sep: setting sail for America. In 1837, there
Mon–Sat) has an excellent exhibition were 424 residents – now there are
on the subject. It also houses the around 40. On the left you’ll pass the
Lough Hyne Interpretive Centre, with secluded Galley Cove. Keep left onto
information on the marine nature the L4402 for Mizen Head. Further
reserve, including an aquarium. along on the left is the car park for
ª At the roundabout in Skibbereen Barley Cove Beach, a short walk Above Clear tidal stream and pristine sands of
take the N71 west, signed to away along a boardwalk through Barley Cove Beach
Bantry. Bear left onto R592, the dunes. This is a conservation
entering Ballydehob, to begin area, full of birds, flora and fauna. EAT AND DRINK
the 37-km (23-mile) drive Turn left at the next junction,
around Mizen Head. signed for Mizen Head, Ireland’s BALTIMORE
most south-westerly point. There Casey’s of Baltimore inexpensive
q Mizen Head Peninsula are great views down to Barley Choose from an extensive menu
of fresh seafood, including lobster
The first stop on the drive to Cove and across to Brow Head. dishes and mussels from their own
Mizen Head is the village of The 1909 Mizen Head Signal farm in Roaringwater Bay. The bright
Schull, with its busy harbour. Its Station (open Mar–Oct: daily; Nov– restaurant aside, the hotel also has
Sunday market features crafts Feb: weekends) is linked to the its own craft brewery.
as well as fresh local produce. mainland by a 52-m (172-ft) 028 20197; www.caseysofbaltimore.
com; closed 21–26 Dec
Stay on the R592 signed suspension bridge and has
to Goleen, then turn left a fascinating exhibition on The Lookout moderate–expensive
This smart French restaurant specializes
onto the L4406 for the “coast Skibbereen’s its history as well as the in seafood including fresh lobster.
road” (it actually runs a little famine memorial, building of the Fastnet Stunning views of both the harbour
inland). After the crossroads, in the form of a Rock lighthouse. The and the islands.
keep left at the Y-junction. Celtic Cross surrounding cliffs are The Square; 028 20600; www.
There are great views of spectacular. Leaving Mizen, waterfrontbaltimore.ie
Clear Island and the Fastnet take the first left turn for AROUND SKIBBEREEN
Rock and lighthouse. After Toormore, Dunlough and Three Castle Head Island Cottage moderate–expensive
stay on the R591 for Mizen Head. Just which has some great Atlantic views. A short ferry journey from Cunnamore,
after Goleen is Spanish Point, where ª Take main road back to Toormore just west of Skibbereen, is Hare (or Heir)
there is a lighthouse. Further on, the and turn left onto the R591 to Durrus. Island and The Island Cottage restaurant,
run by chef John Desmond. The ferry
pretty village of Crookhaven can be Turn left here for Sheep’s Head. must be booked in advance.
Hare Island, Skibbereen; 028 38102;
www.islandcottage.com; open mid-Jun–
mid-Sep: Wed–Sat eve; Apr, May & Jun:
Sat & Sun lunch
AROUND MIZEN HEAD
PENINSULA
Heron’s Cove B&B moderate
Enjoy fresh fish, game and other local
produce in a secluded tidal cove with
lovely views, and choose your own wine
from the collection on the rack.
The Harbour, Goleen (on R591 between
Toormore and Crookhaven); 028 35225;
www.heronscove.com
Left Rocky cliffs at Mizen Head
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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