Page 45 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland
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DRIVE 2: Islands and Lighthouses  43








                                                         VISITING INCHYDONEY
                                                         AND GALLEY HEAD
                                                        Inchydoney Surf School
                                                        Inchdoney Beach; 086 869 5396;
                                                        www.westcorksurfing.com; open
                                                        Jun–Sep: daily; Oct–May: Sat–Sun
                                                        Galley Head Lighthouse
       Above Inchydoney Beach, one of the loveliest on this stretch of coastline  Tours run by the Irish Landmark Trust.
                                                        www.irishlandmark.com
             Michael Collins   self-catering accommodation. The
        Michael Collins (1890–1922), the   rocks at the end are a good place
        nationalist military and political   from which to spot whales and
        leader, was born in Clonakilty at a   dolphins. The drive to Dromberg
        time when West Cork was the   passes some lovely beaches as well
        nationalist heartland. He rose to   as the ruins, in private grounds, of   EAT AND DRINK
        prominence during and after the
        Easter Rising of 1916, but was   Castlefreke Castle.
        assassinated aged 31. His monument   ª Return along the road and take    KINSALE
        in Clonalkilty was unveiled in 2002   the first left onto the L4006, then go   Blu at the Blue Haven moderate
        by Liam Neeson, who played him in   straight through the next crossroads.   This restaurant, in the Blue Haven
        the film based on his life.  The Warren Blue Flag beach and   Hotel, serves modern Irish cuisine
                               Castlefreke Dunes are on your left.   with seafood and fresh locally sourced
                                                        produce both strongly featured.
                               Turn left onto the R598 to Rathbarry   Pearse Street; 021 477 2209;
       4 Inchydoney Island     for Castlefreke Castle and Wood.   www.bluehavenkinsale.com; closed
       Co Cork                 Continue on the R598, from which   Sun & Mon Oct–Mar
       This little island is linked to the main-  there is a lovely viewpoint on the left,   Fishy Fishy Café moderate
       land by a causeway, so you can drive   overlooking headlands and islands.   Not surprisingly, from the name, this
       on to it. The focal point is Inchydoney   You’ll also pass Owenahincha beach.   busy café and restaurant serves locally
       Island Lodge & Spa, a luxury resort   Turn left onto the N71 to Rosscarbery,   caught seafood with a twist in bright
                                                        modern surroundings.
       spa with a thalassotherapy pool.   then left again onto the R597 towards   Crowley’s Quay; 021 470 0415;
       Inchydoney is also home to the    Glandore. At Drombeg, take a left   www.fishyfishy.ie; daily mid-Mar–
       West Cork Surf School, which offers    signed for the Stone Circle. There is a   mid-Oct, closed Sun & Mon eve
       a range of surfing lessons provided   car park, from which the circle is just   CLONAKILTY
       the waves are good.     short walk away.
       ª Return to Clonakilty and take the              An Sugán inexpensive
                                                        This bar/restaurant is renowned for its
       N71 for Skibbereen. After Lisavaird,             great seafood, including Bantry Bay
       turn left signed for Long Strand. Take           mussels. Its open fires and child-friendly
       the right-hand fork at the Y-junction            atmosphere make it a popular spot.
       onto the R598. After Rathbarry, take             41 Wolfe Tone Street; 023 883 3719;
       the second exit at the roundabout by             www.ansugan.com
       Castlefreke Post Office. Take the next           Tigh de Barra inexpensive
       right turn for Galley Head and go                A cosy, wood-panelled pub that’s a
                                                        mecca for musicians, with traditional
       straight through the next crossroads,            Irish music on Mondays, and live music
       then turn right. Stop when the cliffs            nearly every other night.
       come into view.                                  56 Pearse Street; 023 883 3381;
                                                        www.debarra.ie
       5 Galley Head                                    AROUND GALLEY HEAD
       Co Cork                                          Pilgrim’s moderate
       Galley Head is an attractive headland            This pretty little restaurant, on the road
       jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean.             to Drombeg Stone Circle, serves up
       Dating from 1873, the lighthouse                 fresh, inventive, modern takes on local
       here was one of the most powerful                produce, including foraged ingredients
                                                        and some global flavour influences.
       of its day. On private property run              6 South Square, Rosscarbery; 023 883
       by the Landmark Irish Trust, the                 1796; open Wed–Sat eve, Sun lunch;
       lighthouse now functions as    Above Lighthouse at Galley Head  www.pilgrims.ie
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


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