Page 46 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

44 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Above left Ancient stone circle, Drombeg
Above centre Boat in the Sound at Union 6 Drombeg Stone Circle at the first T-junction and take the
Hall Above right Baltimore’s Beacon Co Cork next right, then next left, then right
Known locally as the Druid’s Altar, again and then a slight left at the next
and in a magnificent setting with sea fork. Keep left at the next junction and
VISITING BALTIMORE views, this circle of 13 (originally 17) then left again for Lough Hyne.
pillar stones dates back to around
Boat Trips and Other Activities 900 BC. During excavation in the 8 Lough Hyne
Sherkin Island Ferries make the 1950s, a pot containing the cremated Co Cork
crossing from Baltimore daily year-
round, hourly from 7.45am to 8.30pm. remains of a young woman was found Lough Hyne (also known as Lough
The crossing takes 15 minutes (028 in the centre, dating from 150 BC. Ine) is a salt-water lake and Ireland’s
20125, www.sherkinisland.eu). Cape ª Continue on the R597 to arrive at only marine nature reserve. The lake
Clear Island Ferry Service departs the attractive village of Glandore, on a is fed by the sea through a narrow
Baltimore daily year-round (028 39153, picturesque bay. Drive through the channel that causes irregular tidal
www.callinoir.com). Heir Island MV
Tresher makes the crossing to Heir village and around the coast. Turn left movements. There are many species
Island year-round (086 809 2447, signed for Union Hall and cross the of plants and animals, including sea
www.heirislandsailingschool.com). bridge over the Sound, turning right urchins and oysters, and the lake is
signed for Castletownshend. Take the studied intensively by marine
next right, signposted for Skibbereen, biologists and scientists. An
WHERE TO STAY drive through Rineen and, at the Interpretive Centre in Skibbereen (see
T-junction, turn left. Take a sharp right) gives more information on what
BALTIMORE left at the next crossroads onto the is found in the lake, which is also the
Rolf’s Country House inexpensive R596 for Castletownshend. subject of poetry and local folklore.
This charming bed-and-breakfast is in ª Follow the road left, signed for
an old farmhouse with stone cottages 7 Castletownshend
and converted outbuildings. The Baltimore, and turn left at the R595.
whole complex, from the thriving café Co Cork
and wine bar to the quiet garden with This is a pretty village set on a steep 9 Baltimore
sea views, has great character. hill. Drive down the village to the Co Cork
Baltimore Hill; 028 20289; www.rolfs pier at the end. There is a secluded This tiny coastal village, set in lovely
countryhouse.com; closed 21–27 Dec
cove with boats moored, and to the scenery and with ideal conditions for
Casey’s of Baltimore moderate left, the Castle (tours May, Jun & Sep: watersports, is the reason why there
This popular hotel, traditional pub and Sun–Fri), which dates back to the are so many holiday homes in the
seafood restaurant (see opposite) is at
the entrance to Baltimore and makes a 1600s and is still owned by the area. Nestled around a harbour, and
great base for exploring the area. Many Townsend family. The village was warmed by the Gulf Stream, it offers
of the rooms overlook the quiet bay. home for many years to Somerville sailing, angling, diving, kayaking,
028 20197; www.caseysofbaltimore. and Ross, authors of Experiences of an whale- and dolphin-watching and
com; closed 21–26 Dec Irish R M. boat trips to the islands (Sherkin, Cape
SKIBBEREEN ª Drive back through the village and Clear and Heir), Lough Hyne and the
turn left onto the L4218. There will be Fastnet lighthouse. The harbour
West Cork Hotel moderate
This family-run riverside hotel is a lovely cliff views to the left. Toe Head, bustles with boats, especially in
good base from which to explore off the road to the left, has great summer. The small central “square”
the surrounding coastline. Many of the views, and the village of Tragumna offers plenty of dining options.
ensuite rooms enjoy views over the has a fabulous bay and a Blue Flag Drive or walk to The Beacon (turn
river, as do the bar and breakfast room.
Ilen Street; 028 21277; beach, but beware of the strong rip left at the harbour) for fantastic views
www.westcorkhotel.com and rocks. After Tragumna, turn left out to sea and over to Sherkin Island.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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