Page 57 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry 55

Above left White sands and rocky outcrops
worth walking a little way up the Catholic emancipation in 1829. The of Castlecove Above Sturdy remains of the
slopes of the valley to get a proper house contains much important impressive Iron Age Staigue Fort
sense of the scale of the fort set memorabilia, and there is a video
against the surrounding landscape. presentation on his life and times.
ª Return to the N70 and turn right The lush subtropical gardens run EAT AND DRINK
for Castlecove, then left for the beach. down to the bay where there is a
wide, sandy beach backed by dunes. KENMARE
4 Castlecove ª Return to the N70 and turn left. Packies inexpensive
Co Kerry Beyond Caherdaniel, the Ring of Kerry The mainstays here include Irish stew
and fish chowder, and they are very
The main attraction of this little climbs steeply to the Coomakista Pass, proud of their “real prawn cocktail”.
resort is the beautiful white sandy with stunning views of Scariff Island Henry St; 064 664 1508; closed Sun
beach that looks out across the and the mouth of the River Kenmare. No 35 Restaurant moderate
River Kenmare towards the Carry on to Waterville. The menu at this informal restaurant
Slieve Miskish Mountains. features pizza and pasta dishes with
This sheltered cove is 6 Waterville an emphasis on local produce.
ideal for safe swimming Co Kerry 35 Main Street; 064 664 1559;
and is understandably Near Waterville, on www.no35kenmare.com
popular with families. the descent from the Lime Tree Restaurant expensive
Children will also love to Coomakista Pass, One of Kenmare’s best restaurants, with
explore the deep rock the jagged silhouette of a loyal following. The food is classic
Irish with a contemporary approach.
pools for sea life when the Skellig Rock (see p56) can Shelbourne Street; 064 664 1225; www.
tide is out. be seen far out to sea. The limetreerestaurant.com; closed Nov–Mar
ª Return to N70 and Blind Piper pub sign, town itself is located on a SNEEM
continue to Caherdaniel. Caherdaniel long strip of land between
Turn left here, signposted to Lough Currane and Sacre Coeur Restaurant moderate
Fresh fish features on the menu but
Derrynane House. Ballinskelligs Bay. Many visitors are local lamb is also a speciality.
attracted by its extensive beach, North Square; 064 664 5186; open
5 Derrynane Bay Waterville Strand; a championship dinner only; www.sacrecoeur.com
Co Kerry golf course and superb angling are WATERVILLE
The village of Caherdaniel sprawls other notable attractions. The beach Old Cable House inexpensive
along Derrynane Bay’s eastern flank. is on the left of the town, backed by The Old Cable House is blessed with
At the heart of the village are two a grassy promenade. Keep an eye clear views across the Atlantic, where
excellent pubs, the Blind Piper and out for the bronze statue of Charlie the first transatlantic telegraph cable
Freddie’s bar. Chaplin, who was a regular visitor, was laid from here to the USA in 1866.
A little way beyond the village staying at the Butler’s Arms with his A guesthouse, it also welcomes non-
residents for unfussy seafood with an
is Derrynane House (open mid-Mar– trademark bowler hat and cane. emphasis on freshness and flavour.
Nov: daily; gardens all year), set Waterville boasts many good places Local lamb and beef also on the menu.
in a 120-ha (300-acre) wooded to eat and is an ideal stop off. Old Cable Station; 066 947 4233;
National Park. The former home ª Continue in the same direction on www.oldcablehouse.com
of Daniel O’Connell (see p58), it is the N70, signposted for Cahersiveen. Smuggler’s Inn moderate
now a museum dedicated to “The After New Chapel Cross turn left onto The watchword at this smart restaurant
Liberator” as he is sometimes called. the R567, signed to Ballinskelligs. adjacent to the golf course overlooking
A hugely popular and non-violent Shortly after the road crosses the Ballinskeligs Bay is sustainable seafood,
such as monkfish and black sole.
campaigner, he championed the rights River Inny there is a sign for the Cliff Road; 066 947 4330;
of the poor and helped bring about Skellig Ring Drive. www.thesmugglersinn.ie
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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