Page 58 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

56 BACK ROADS IRELAND

7 Skellig Ring Drive Skellig Rocks, rising up from a vast
Co Kerry expanse of sea. The road continues
Since there are no coach tours around, skirting the edge of Saint
allowed on this stretch of the road – Finan’s Bay before climbing again to
known as the Skellig Ring Drive – Coonanaspig Pass. There follows an
it is easy to enjoy the scenery in exhilarating descent into the harbour
relative isolation. Where the R567 village of Portmagee. At the foot of
joins the R566, turn left and follow the hill, on the left, is a family-run
the road as it curves around the café, the Skellig Mist. From here, it
bay, leading to Ballinskelligs village, is a 20-minute walk to the nearby
where there is a magnificent stretch cliffs, which offer a spectacular view
of sandy beach. After the village, the across to Valentia Island.
road inclines sharply towards Bolus ª From the café turn left onto
Head, before turning northwards, the minor road and follow it onto the
skirting Bolus Mountain. Soon the R565 to the left to drive over
landscape opens up into thrilling the bridge that crosses the channel
vistas of a patchwork of fields to Valentia Island. Coming off the
Above Puffin Island, seen from Coonanaspig sweeping down to the headland bridge, the Skellig Experience
Pass on the Skellig Ring Drive and the jagged diamond of the Centre is on the left.

8 Valentia Island
Co Kerry
Valentia Island has an enthralling mix of towering cliffs, rolling hills
VISITING SKELLIG MICHAEL
and wild seascapes, and is noted for the variety of subtropical plants
The Skellig Experience Centre that have taken root here. History was made here in 1866 when the
organizes cruises to Skellig St Michael first transatlantic telegraph to the United States was laid here. Be
(Great Skellig) and Small Skellig when
the sea is not too rough. For details visit aware that the car ferry used for part of this route runs Apr–Oct only;
the centre or its website, www. winter visitors will have to return from the island using the road bridge.
skelligexperience.com. Several
independent boat owners can take you
to the Skelligs too. On Valentia Island, 1 Skellig Experience Centre thrived on the island and on the way
try Owen Walsh Skellig Boat Trips, Housed in a striking, prize-winning of life of its remarkably resilient
066 947 6327, or Ocean Quests, 066 stone building with a grass roof, the monks. There are also displays on the
947 6214 (Apr–Sep). Alternatively, try
Casey’s Skellig Boat Trips, Portmagee, Skellig Experience Centre (open May– bird and underwater life of the island.
066 947 2437, or Waterville Boats, Sep: daily; Mar, Apr, Oct & Nov: Mon–Fri) The Centre is able to arrange boat
Waterville, 066 947 4800 (May–Sep only). has displays on every facet of Skellig trips to Skellig Michael.
Michael (Sceiig Mhichil), which is ª On leaving the car park, turn left
now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. up the hill. At the first junction turn
WHERE TO STAY IN
BALLAGHBEAMA GAP This remote and rocky outcrop left again, following the signs for the
contains one of the best-preserved Skellig Drive, and continue to a fork
Blackstones House inexpensive early Christian monastic sites in the in the road. To access the path to
Situated at the foot of Carruntuohill, world. The audiovisual presentation Bray Tower, fork left and drive until
Ireland’s highest mountain, and is full of fascinating detail on the a lay-by at the end of the road is
overlooking the Caragh River, this centuries in which the monastery reached. Park here.
friendly family-run B&B enjoys a
splendid location. All rooms are
ensuite with views of the river and the Lough Kay Cahersiveen
soothing sound of its soft gurgling. 0 kilometres 3 Reenadrolaun
Point
Blackstone Bridge, Glencar; 066 976 Geokaun Renard
0164; www.blackstoneshouse.com 0 miles 3 Mountain Point
Fogher
Carrig Country House and Cliffs Knightstown
Restaurant moderate–expensive
A former hunting lodge, owned by Valentia Oghermong
Lord Brockett, this manor house is the Island
perfect hideaway – relaxed, and with
a charming atmosphere. There are Coarhabeg Donnybrook
wonderful views over Caragh Lake, and Bray Tower Skellig Experience
a restaurant, which offers exceptional Centre Kilpearan
cooking (non-residents are welcome). Portmagee
Killorglin, Caragh Lake; 066 976 9100;
www.carrighouse.com; closed end
Nov–Mar
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
054-059_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 56 11/09/17 12:29 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 29th April 2009
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