Page 59 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland
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DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry  57


       2 Bray Tower            certainly worth the short trek up.
       Bray Tower is an 18th-century signal   On Geokaun Mountain there is a
       tower standing on the promontory   viewing platform and information
       of Bray Head. It is thought originally   plaques explaining what you can see.
       to have been a Martello lookout   Before reaching the top, walk the
       tower, many of which were built   short path on the left to the Fogher
       around Ireland in response to the   Cliffs and take in the panoramic
       threat of an invasion by Napoleon.   landscape from the viewing deck.
       From the car park, head out on foot   ª Continue to Knightstown for the car
       along the track that leads out to the   ferry that runs continuously to Renard
       headland and the tower. On a clear   Point. From there drive east to Caher­
       day, the sweeping vistas of the   siveen. If the ferry is not running (Nov–
       surrounding headlands and islands   Mar), retrace your route to Portmagee.
       are truly magnificent. Allow an hour   Take the R565 to Oghermong, then
       for the whole walk.     the N70 north to Cahersiveen.
       ª Return to the fork in the road and             Above Rossbehy Beach at Glenbeigh, on the
       this time take the other fork. Continue   Monastic miracle  road from Cahersiveen to Caragh Lake
       until you see a left sign for Geokaun   In the 6th century, a group of
       Mountain and Fogher Cliffs. Drive to   monks established a monastery on
       the top or park at the foot of the   the island Skellig Michael – nothing
       mountain and walk (20 minutes).  short of a miracle of devotion and
                                ingenuity. Having withstood the
                                forces of the Atlantic for nearly 1,500
       3 Geokaun Mountain and the   years, the chapel and beehive huts
       Fogher Cliffs            are still remarkably preserved.
       These are the highest points on the   The hardy monastic community
       island and indeed on the whole Ring   remained there for 600 years.
       of Kerry. The views from the top are
                                                         EAT AND DRINK
                                                        SKELLIG RING DRIVE
                                                        The Moorings moderate
                                                        Looking out over the harbour, this
                                                        guesthouse, restaurant and bar caters
                                                        for all needs. The award-winning Bridge
                                                        Bar is ideal for a light lunch before
                                                        venturing onto Valentia Island. There’s
                                                        traditional Irish music and dancing
                                                        every Friday.
                                                        Harbour Front, Portmagee; 066 947
                                                        7108; www.moorings.ie
                                                        VALENTIA ISLAND
                                                        Knightstown Coffee Shop
                                                        inexpensive
                                                        This charming coffee shop offers a
       Above A panoramic view of Bray Head and its steep cliffs, Valentia Island  selection of wraps, croissants and
                                                        baguettes, as well as a range of more
       9 Cahersiveen           Ballaghbeama Gap         substantial meals. It doubles up as a
       Co Kerry                Co Kerry                 second-hand bookshop and offers
       Cahersiveen is the main service town   From Blackstone Bridge, a narrow road   Internet access.
                                                        Market Street; 066 947 6373;
       for this part of the peninsula. Its    winds its way up in the shadow of the   www.knightstowncoffee.com
       chief claim to fame is that Daniel   Magillicuddy Reeks to Ballaghbeama
       O’Connell, who agitated for Catholic   Gap. On a clear day there are sweeping   CAHERSIVEEN
       emancipation, was born here.    views across the lonely, windswept   The Point Bar moderate
       The Heritage Centre has displays   landscape. Take a right fork 1 km (half    Near to where the ferry disembarks
       covering the life of O’Connell and the  a mile) after the bridge to a T-junction    from Valentia Island, this place is an
                                                        institution and a great spot for a pint
       ill-fated Fenian uprising of 1867.  (2 km/1 mile), then turn right for   outdoors on a summer’s evening,
       ª Take the N70 north. It dips down to   Cahersiveen, past the Climber’s Inn,   watching harbour life. However, the
       sea level at Glenbeigh. Beyond this, turn   then sharp left for Ballaghbeama Gap   real draw here is the fresh seafood,
       right for Glencar and Caragh Lake. Turn   (signposted). From the top, the road   which is very reasonably priced.
                                                        Food is only served during the
       right over a bridge and drive round the   descends to join the R568, skirting    summer months.
       lake to Blackstone Bridge over the River   the southern flanks of the Reeks.   Renard Point, Cahersiveen;
       Caragh, a picturesque picnic spot.  ª On the R568 turn left to Moll’s Gap.  066 947 2165
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


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