Page 56 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

54 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Kenmare ª Take the main N71 from the
Co Kerry Square and over the Cromwell Bridge,
The picturesque heritage town of signposted for Moll’s Gap and
Kenmare on the mouth of the River Killarney. Very shortly after the bridge,
Sneem regularly comes top of many turn left onto the N70, signposted
Irish people’s list when asked to to Sneem. The drive from Kenmare to
nominate their favourite town. It isn’t Sneem along the banks of the River
completely in thrall to tourism and Kenmare affords lovely views of the
goes about its business in a dignified Caha and Slieve Miskish mountains
and discreet manner. Its Irish name, on the opposite shore.
Neidin, translates as “little nest”, and is
an apt description. It lies at the head 2 Sneem
of the River Kenmare, flanked by the Co Kerry
Ring of Beara (see p48) and the Ring This quaintly pretty village, located at
of Kerry, making it an ideal base from the head of an estuary flowing into
which to explore either peninsula. Kenmare river, is built around a
The town centre is compact, and picturesque green on which stands
its X-shaped street pattern converges a statue to the local hero Steve
Above Handsome Derrynane House, set in in a triangular square at the junction “Crusher” Casey, a world champion
subtropical gardens where flax grows of Henry Street and Main Street. Its wrestler. This is a good place to stop
narrow streets are lined with great for a quick bite or coffee. There are
VISITING KENMARE shops and galleries, live music pubs some nice shops, galleries and cafés
Parking and some excellent restaurants and off the main square.
Park on either side of Main Street or in cafés. The library now houses the ª Continue west on the N70 in the
the Square opposite the Tourist Office. Carnegie Arts Centre (www. direction of Castlecove. At a junction
Tourist Information carnegieartskenmare.ie), whose state- just before the village, there is a tea
The Square; 064 664 1233; open Mar–Oct: of-the-art theatre stages a wide room and visitor centre for Staigue
daily; www.discoverireland.com/kerry range of top-quality drama and Fort. Turn right here, taking the
concerts. It is worth dawdling a while narrow road as indicated, which leads
WHERE TO STAY to make the most of this delightful to the fort itself, and park by the fort.
town. An advantage to starting the
KENMARE drive around the Ring from here is 3 Staigue Fort
Lissyclearig Thatched Cottage that there is less chance of getting Castlecove, Co Kerry
inexpensive stuck behind a convoy of tour buses, This is an impressive ring fort, thought
Charming traditional house in a quiet as the majority of tours set off from to date from 300–400 AD, set in a
location with lovely countryside views. Killarney, following an anti-clockwise beautiful, remote valley. One of
Moll’s Gap Road; 064 664 2562;
www.lissyclearigthatchedcottage.com route around the peninsula. the best preserved Iron Age forts in
Kenmare is also renowned for its Ireland, Staigue Fort has 5-m (16-ft)
Lansdowne Arms moderate
A welcoming family-run hotel. traditional lace. During the famine high dry-stone walls surrounded by
Main Street; 064 664 1368 ; years, nuns from the local convent, a bank and a ditch. Access the two
www.lansdownearms.com St Clare’s, introduced lace making to vaulted chambers within and climb
create work for the women and girls. up the ramparts. It’s also well worth
The Park Hotel expensive
This chateau-style hotel offers modern
comforts, including a gorgeous spa, in Below The River Sneem before it flows into the estuary at Kenmare
a traditional setting. Great estuary views.
High Street; 064 664 1200;
www.parkkenmare.com
SNEEM
Parknasilla Hotel expensive
Set in swathes of subtropical parkland
overlooking Kenmare Bay, this hotel
may have the best location in Ireland.
Parknasilla Resort; 064 667 5600;
www.parknasillahotel.ie; closed Jan–Mar
WATERVILLE
Butler Arms Hotel
inexpensive-moderate
One of Ireland’s best-known hotels –
Charlie Chaplin was once a regular.
Waterville; 066 947 4144;
www.butlerarms.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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