Page 68 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

66 BACK ROADS IRELAND

6 Ventry (Ceann Trá) still in good watertight condition.
Co Kerry Some are on private land, and farmers
Cushioned up against the slopes may charge a small fee to view them.
of Mount Eagle, Ventry perches ª Continue west on the R559 to Slea
alongside a wonderful crescent of Head and round into Coumeenole
white sandy beach, backed by sand Bay. This is an exhilarating stretch of
dunes and hills. Here, upturned cliff-hugging road, high above Dingle
currachs (traditional Irish fishing Bay. On the right, the western flanks
boats of black-tarred canvas) are a of Mount Eagle slope down to the sea,
common sight. The beach, one of on the left you can see the Blaskets.
the safest in the region, is popular
with water sports enthusiasts and The Blasket Islands
is ideal for swimming. On hot Once the most westerly settlement
summer days, the pier at Ventry in Europe, Great Blasket was finally
is also a popular swimming spot. abandoned in 1953, when its
ª Continue along the R559 to dwindling population could no
Dunbeg Fort. longer be sustained. Nevertheless,
the Blasket Islands remain, for many
Irish people, a potent symbol of an
7 Dunbeg Fort ancient Irish-speaking culture.
Fahan, Co Kerry Three books by islanders recount a
Just beyond Ventry, on a promontory lost way of life: Muiris O’Suilleabhan’s
looking out across Dingle Bay, is the Twenty Years a’Growing; Peig Sayer’s
Iron Age fort of Dunbeg. Surrounded A Woman’s Reflections; and Tomas
O’Criomhthain’s The Island Man.
Above Rocky headland overlooking Dingle by sea on three sides, this fortress has English translations retain much
Bay, site of the Iron-Age fort of Dunbeg walls 7 m (23 ft) thick, surrounded by of the local flavour and evocative
earthen trenches. Though much of phrasing of the original Irish.
the original construction has long
VISITING THE BLASKETS since tumbled into the sea, including
a large section of the western wall 8 Slea Head (Ceann Sléibhe)
Blasket Island Ferries cross from
Dunquin Harbour roughly every half during the ferocious storms of 2014, Co Kerry
hour from 10am to dusk Easter-end Sep. it is still an imposing sight. Opposite Offering exhilarating views across
066 915 6422; www.blasketislands.ie is the Visitor Centre (open Mar–Nov: Dingle Bay and over to Great Blasket
daily), where there is a car park. Island, Slea Head is the western most
A little further along the R559 is point in Europe, and the focal point
the first set of clochans, or beehive of the Dingle drive. The sweep of
huts, with the Fahan Group a short sea, craggy coves and outlying
walk or drive away (there is ample islands that come into view as you
parking at the site). It is estimated round the headland is a spectacular
there are up to 400 of these huts on sight. The dramatic confluence of
the southern slopes of Mount Eagle. sea and land can be appreciated
Many of these pre historic dwellings, from the viewing point – a much
WHERE TO STAY AROUND constructed in unmortared stone, are photographed scene. A short
VENTRY (CEANN TRÁ)
Below Road curving down from Dunmore Head, with views over Blasket Sound to the Blaskets
Moriarty’s Farmhouse inexpensive
This friendly guesthouse is set on a
working farm in an idyllic location near
Ventry. Its six ensuite rooms have
stunning views across Ventry Harbour.
Owners Ted and Brid Moriarty are
experts on the history of the region.
Rahanane (1 km/2 miles from Ventry at
the start of the Slea Head Drive); 066 915
9037; www.dinglevacation.com
Milltown House moderate
Robert Mitchum stayed in this award-
winning period guesthouse during
the filming of Ryan’s Daughter. The 10
rooms are furnished to a high standard.
Ventry Road, Milltown (at the start of
the Slea Head Drive between Dingle
and Ventry); 066 915 1372;
www.milltownhouse.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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