Page 70 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

68 BACK ROADS IRELAND

WHERE TO STAY
w Kilmalkedar Church views across Smerwick Harbour and
FEOHANAGH (AN FEOTHANACH) Slea Head, Co Kerry the ragged headland of Ballydavid.
An Riasc Guest House moderate This early Christian and medieval site Below you is Dooneen pier, which is
This charming stone farmhouse is is spread over 4 ha (10 acres) and is accessible on foot. There you may
located just outside Feohanagh, amid associated with St Brendan. At the see the remains of old currachs,
breathtaking scenery. Denise, the centre is the 12th-century Kilmalkedar once the main fishing vessels here.
owner, places a strong emphasis on Church, an excellent example of Irish Though they are still built on the
using fresh and local produce. Short Romanesque style. Near the chancel peninsula, their use has declined.
courses in Irish available as well as
cooking demos and walking tours. door is an early Christian Alphabet ª Just past Feohanagh turn sharp
Evening meals available on request. Stone, and there are several ancient left and take the minor road signed
Feohanagh; 066 915 5446; crosses here, as well as an Ogham to Ballyroe and Tiduff.
www.anriasc.ie Stone (marked with ancient script).
AROUND CONOR PASS The Pilgrim’s Way walk to the top of
(AN CHONAIR) Mount Brandon starts behind the
O’Connor’s Guesthouse inexpensive church. Even a short 20-minute
In a stunning location at the foot of stretch of the walk is rewarded with
Mount Brandon, overlooking Brandon fine views across Smerwick Harbour.
Bay, this family-run guesthouse in the ª Return on R559 towards Murreagh.
village of Cloghane is popular with Before the village is a school house.
walkers. It has nine bedrooms,
including family rooms. Breakfast, Turn right here but, if the turning is
evening meals and packed lunches are missed there is another right turn onto
available, as well as a pint in the bar. the R549 in Murreagh itself. Either
Cloghane (turn left on R585 as you road will take you into Feohanagh.
descend the Conor Pass); 066 713 8113;
www.cloghane.com
Local Flavours
THE MAHAREES PENINSULA In the last decade or so a culinary Above Steep-sided cliff walls form a sheltering
Tigh Beagh moderate renaissance has taken place on the harbour at lovely Brandon Creek
This compact, beautifully restored Dingle Peninsula. Some of the local
farmhouse – the “small house” – is set delicacies worth sampling are r Brandon Creek
in 17 acres of native woodland, and Blasket Island lamb, highly regarded
comes with its own mountain river for its fine flavour; black (blood) and Slea head, Co Kerry
and waterfall. It should appeal to those white pudding made in Anascaul; Brandon Creek is believed to be the
seeking peace and solitude. The house award-winning Dingle Peninsula spot from which St Brendan the
is fully equipped with all mod cons seaweed-flavoured cheese from Navigator set out on his epic voyage
and has a geothermally heated tiled Castlegregory; Dingle’s smoked fish to Newfoundland in the 6th century.
floor, as well as a wood-burning stove. and Murphy’s ice cream (see p65).
Two large bedrooms. His journey is recounted in Navigato
Glanteenassig, Castlegregory (take Brendan, the earliest copies of which,
R560 from Castlegregory and right in Latin and dating from the 11th
turn uphill to Glanteenassig); 087 779 e Feohanagh century, were once housed in
3126; www.tighbeag.com
(An Feothanach) medieval libraries across Europe.
Slea Head, Co Kerry It is not advisable to drive down to
Below Ancient crosses near the Irish As you arrive in Feohanagh, pull into the pier at Brandon Creek. Leave the
Romanesque Kilmalkedar Church the car park to admire stupendous car in the small parking area above,
and walk the short distance. At the
end of the pier is a rock within which
is a large crevice. This creates an air
pocket that, depending on the roll of
the tide, makes a booming sound
when trapped air is released.
Brandon Creek nestles in the
shadows of imposing Mount
Brandon, the second-highest
mountain in Ireland and one of
the country’s holiest places.
ª From Brandon Creek, drive due
south on a minor road which
eventually joins the main R549 road
back towards Dingle. Just before it
joins the main road there is a sign
pointing left for Mount Brandon car
park. Take this narrow road.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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