Page 71 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 4: The Dingle Peninsula 69

t Mount Brandon
Co Kerry
According to legend St Brendan
climbed to the top of this mountain
to view the Americas before starting
out on his voyage. Near the Mount
Brandon car park, a gateway, a grotto
and a stream mark the starting point
for the annual pilgrimage to the
summit, which takes place on the
nearest Sunday to 29 June. On this
day a special mass is celebrated on
top of the mountain. A well-trodden
path, punctuated by the Stations of
the Cross, winds its way to the
summit. It’s well worth walking as
least as far as the early markers for
panoramic views of Dingle Harbour. Above Road leading to Brandon Creek, in the
ª Return to the R549, turn left and u The Maharees Peninsula shadow of Mount Brandon
follow the road back to Dingle. On Co Kerry
leaving Dingle, turn first left at the Castlegregory is the gateway to the
first roundabout for the Conor Pass. Maharees Peninsula, a sandy spit that
divides Brandon and Tralee bays. It is
y Conor Pass (An Chonair) a pretty village with narrow streets EAT AND DRINK
Co Kerry and gaily coloured little houses. The AROUND FEOHANAGH (AN
Ireland’s highest route, the Conor Maharees itself has mile upon mile of FEOTHANACH)
Pass road rises quickly, winding its sandy beaches, and is one of Ireland’s
way to the summit at 460 m (1,500 main water sports centres. Bird- Gorman’s Clifftop House and
Restaurant moderate
ft). On a clear day there is a view watchers may want to stop at Lough A top-notch restaurant with an
of some of the most spectacular Gill, outside Castlegregory, which is emphasis on local produce, organic
scenery in Ireland, with a panorama famed for the variety of bird species. when possible, and robust Irish
of mountains, sea, lakes and boulder- From Castlegregory, follow the main cooking. The owners are very
strewn valleys. The whole of Ireland road along the central spine of the spit knowledgeable about the local area.
Glashabeg (just outside Feohanagh);
seems to be laid out below. To to the village of Fahamore. This is one 066 915 5162; www.gormans-
the south is Dingle Bay, while of the few places in which currachs are clifftophouse.com
to the north are sweeping views over still made. Carry on to Scraggane Bay,
the Maharees Peninsula to Tralee Bay at the tip of the peninsula. It is popular THE MAHAREES PENINSULA
(on the right), and across Brandon with windsurfers, and its harbour is Spillane’s moderate
Run by Marilyn and Michael Spillane,
Bay to Brandon Point (to the left). home to a small fishing fleet. From this popular bar and restaurant is one
ª From the summit, the road winds the pier there are views across to the of the landmark eating houses on the
down between Brandon and Stradbally Magharee Islands, known as the Seven Maharees Peninsula. It has a wide-
mountains to the coast. It is narrow in Hogs. On the largest, lllauntannig, ranging menu, designed to suit all
places, so exercise caution, especially there are three stone huts and two tastes. Specials usually include two
meat and two fish dishes. Also offers
in poor weather. At Stradbally, turn oratories, the remnants of an early self-catering accommodation.
left onto a minor road towards Killiney Christian monastery. Occasionally, local Fahamore; 066 713 9125;
and go on from there to Castlegregory. fishermen will ferry people across. www.spillanesbar.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Fungie the dolphin, then head out to Irish history
This drive never strays far from the Ventry 6 and try windsurfing or With Dunquin 9 as the base, first
sea or from history, so make the kayaking on the Blue Flag beach. visit the Blasket Islands Centre to
most of both. One day trip links up After lunch, join the surfers at learn about the unique history of the
a range of water-based activities, Coumeenoole Bay 8 and stay on Islands, then take the boat to Great
while, for those caught up in the for a fabulous sunset view over the Blasket to explore this lonely place.
romance of Irish history and culture, Blasket Islands. On returning, head to Ballyferriter 0
there’s a chance to step back in time. for a lively pub music session. Movie
Follow the itinerary from Dingle to
Watery wonders Ventry. From Ventry, take the coastal fans will feel they have stepped right
into Ryan’s Daughter.
Start the day in Dingle 5 with a R559 to Coumeenoole, and use the
boat trip or swimming safari to see same road to return to Dingle. Follow the drive instructions.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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