Page 69 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 4: The Dingle Peninsula 67

distance further on, the road sweeps
around to Coumeenoole Bay (Trá an
Choma) popular with surfers and
bathers. The bay has an organized
picnic area which affords breath-
taking vistas across the bay. Behind
the picnic area is a stone stile. On
the other side of it is a grassy path
leading out to Dunmore Head,
which overlooks the Blasket Sound.
ª Stay on the R559, which now
begins to turn north as it rounds the
peninsula’s headland and heads
slightly inland for Dunquin.
Above The simple but stunning early
0 Ballyferriter (Baile an Christian Gallarus Oratory, whose dry-stone
Fheirtéaraigh) walls have survived 1,300 years
Slea Head, Co Kerry
In the middle of Ballyferriter is
O’Cathain’s pub, a good lunch and
music stop. On the first Wednesday
of each month traditional Sean-nós
sessions take place here, at which
singers perform unaccompanied by
any musical instruments. At the end
of the village, on the left, is the West
Kerry Museum (open mid-Jun–Sep:
daily), dedicated to the peninsula’s
Above Looking across Smerwick Harbour archaeology. The area between
between Ballyferriter and Ballydavid Ballyferriter and Ballydavid (Baile na
nGall) has retained its traditional way
9 Dunquin (Dun Chaoin) of life. Here, and in the villages
Slea Head, Co Kerry around Smerwick Harbour, Gaelige
Dunquin is famous as the setting (Irish) is spoken.
for David Lean’s epic 1970 drama ª Continue on the R559 which turns
Ryan’s Daughter. While the film was sharply left after the Smerwick Hotel.
not a critical success upon release – Further along, turn right at the EAT AND DRINK
though acclaimed today – the signpost for Gallarus Oratory.
breathtaking scenery certainly did VENTRY (CEANN TRÁ)
wonders for regional tourism. q Gallarus Oratory Skipper Restaurant inexpensive
Dunquin was also the place where Slea Head, Co Kerry This atmospheric restaurant offers
the Blasket Islanders came ashore to Often compared to an upturned French food at affordable prices. The
emphasis is on seafood.
trade or buy provisions, which is why boat in appearance, the Gallarus Ventry; 066 915 9853;
it has a certain historical resonance Oratory is one of the best-preserved www.theskipperventry.com
with local people. Some still speak of early Christian churches in Ireland.
the crossing from Dunquin to the Just as impressive are the dry-stone DUNBEG FORT
Blaskets as the “authentic one” – the corbelling techniques that meant Stone House Restaurant inexpensive
one from Dingle to Great Blasket it has been able to withstand the Husband-and-wife team Paul and
Deirdre run this lovely family restaurant
actually takes longer. In Dunquin, elements for nearly 1,300 years. There located opposite Dunbeg Fort. Try
the Blasket Islands Centre (open is a Visitor Centre (open Easter–Oct: some steamed mussels in lemongrass
Easter–Oct: daily) has exhibitions and daily) with a café and an audiovisual or Dingle Bay scampi.
audiovisual displays that show life as exhibition. The centre also provides Fahan, Ventry; 066 915 9970;
www.stonehouseventry.com
it was once lived on the Blaskets. information on Kilmalkedar Church
Here also is Kruger’s pub, a popular (see p68), the other important early BALLYFERRITER
landmark, and the last pub this side Christian site in the area. Tigh Uí Chathain moderate
of the Atlantic. From the bar can be ª Leaving the Oratory, retrace your A restaurant brimful of local character,
seen the island known as Skellig steps to the R559 and turn right in the this offers excellent value for money.
Michael (see p57) in the distance. direction of Murreagh (An Mhuirioch). With some of the best produce in
Ireland on their doorstep, they cook
ª Follow the R559 north, then east, From here, turn sharp right, signed simply, seasonally, and extremely well.
towards Ballyferriter. for Kilmalkedar Church. Ballyferriter; 066 915 6359
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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