Page 77 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 5: Viking Country 75

Far left Waterford City Hall and Christ Church
Cathedral Left Boats in Waterford Marina

EAT AND DRINK
WATERFORD CITY
Henry Downes inexpensive
This atmospheric old pub has been
in the same family since 1797. Try
the whiskey Downes No 9, which is
blended on the premises.
Thomas St; 051 874 118
Bodéga! moderate
2 Tramore The Metal Man Bright and lively with a varied menu –
Co Waterford High on the cliffs on the west side of chargrilled Cajun chicken salad,
Due to its long sandy beach, Tramore Tramore Bay are three pillars, one organic Irish lamb burger, Kilmore
Quay fishcakes.
has been a popular holiday resort for topped by the Metal Man, a 19-m John St; 051 844 177; www.
generations. There is a lively seafront, (61-ft) high figure dressed in the bodegawaterford.com; closed Sun
with an amusement park, miniature colourful uniform of a 19th-century La Bohème moderate–expensive
petty officer. The Metal Man’s out-
railway and other attractions, plus stretched right arm points to the safe Stylish restaurant in the basement of
good swimming and surfing. Its Horse channel for ships. He is one of four one of the city’s finest buildings.
Racing Festival in August is a such figures cast in London in 1819 Dishes include foie gras parfait, pan-
fashionable four-day event. following a shipping disaster in the seared Barbary duck breast, and pear
On the east side of town, an 8-km bay; another is in Sligo Bay (see p204). and almond clafoutis.
2 George’s St; 051 875 645; www.
(5-mile) circular walk passes along labohemerestaurant.ie; closed Sun
the Cush Sandspit to The Burrow 3 Annestown
and back along the beach. It is a Co Waterford TRAMORE
lovely stretch with opportunities to The cluster of houses at Annestown The Victoria inexpensive
see a large variety of birds on the lies on the so-called Copper Coast The veteran Vic pub is a lively affair
whose creditable menu includes all
Back Strand’s mudflats, including between Tramore and Dungarvan, an the pub classics alongside some
Brent geese, golden plover, black- area known for its copper mining in tempting wok and curry dishes.
tailed godwit, red-throated diver, the 19th century. It is a beautiful drive 11 Queens St; 051 390 338;
little egret, kingfisher and fulmar. past unspoiled beaches, coves and www.thevic.ie
Accessible by car on the west side grassy headlands. Annestown has a
of the bay is Great Newtown Head good beach, popular with surfers. Below Secluded cove near Bunmahon on
(leaving Tramore, take the first left after ª Continue along R675 to Bunmahon. County Waterford’s Copper Coast
4 km (2 miles), along the coast, then Park in town centre car park.
signposted) where the Metal Man can
be seen pointing shipping safely 4 Bunmahon
through the sand bars. Park at Co Waterford
Newtown Cove for a short, tricky Waterford’s Copper Coast has been
walk to the headland. designated a European Geopark on
ª Carry on, turning left onto the R675 account of its extraordinary geological
to Annestown. Park by the beach. heritage. Bunmahon’s Geological
Garden (www.coppercoastgeopark.com;
Heart of Glass open daily) explains the volcanic and
Waterford has been famous for its sedimentary rock that remains after
delicate cut glass since 1783, when two continents collided, creating
George and William Penrose started Ireland. There is also a standing stone
the crystal manufacturing business.
The industry prospered until 1851, inscribed with ogham, an early Irish
when a lack of capital and crippling script in use from the 3rd century.
taxes caused business to fail. In Some 19th-century copper mine
1947 a new factory opened, with workings are still visible in the area.
crafts men brought in from Europe ª Leaving Bunmahon, take a left turn
to teach what had become a lost off the R675 and follow the coast road
art. In 2009, the factory closed
again, a victim of the credit crunch, to Stradbally, which has a good beach.
but a major visitor centre, factory Stay on the road as far as Ballyvoyle
and shop have now opened on the crossroads (looking out for neolithic
historic Mall. remains), then rejoin the R675 left to
Dungarvan. Park on the street.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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