Page 76 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

74 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Waterford City
Co Waterford
The capital of County Waterford is a handsome cathedral city set on
the estuary of the River Suir. Founded by the Vikings in 914, by the
18th century it was southeast Ireland’s main port as well as a centre
for glass-making. The Mall, with its elegant Georgian buildings, is
testament to this period, while the old quays are now part of a
revitalized historic quarter.
A one-hour walking tour corpse crawling with worms, it is
Start at Reginald’s Tower 1 (open Jan- inscribed: “I am what you will be; I
mid-Mar: Wed-Sun; mid-Mar-Dec: daily). was what you are now”.
This squat 13th-century tower forms From the cathedral, go back down
the east corner of the Norse and Palace Lane, then turn right onto The
medieval city – a rough triangle of Mall. On the right is the Bishop’s
streets between The Mall, Garden Palace 5, an 18th-century building
Alley, Michael Street, Broad Street, housing the world’s largest collection
Barronstrand Street and the Quays. of historic Waterford glass. From here,
A stronghold of the Anglo-Norman turn right up Colbeck Street, then up
Above Reginald’s Tower, a 13th-century kings, the tower is said to be the first Henrietta Street, and finally left into
landmark on Waterford’s riverfront Irish building to use mortar, High Street and John
at the time a mixture of Roberts Square 6,
blood, lime, fur and mud. named after the architect
From the tower, turn whose influence is
right onto The Mall. everywhere in the city.
Here is the City Hall 2, One of his last works was
incorporating the Theatre the intimate Catholic
Royal, designed in 1788 Cathedral 7 (open daily)
by John Roberts, a local on Barronstrand Street,
man, and remodelled in the which has a rich Neo-
VISITING WATERFORD CITY Waterford city
19th century. Turn right on coat of arms Classical interior. From here,
Parking Palace Lane, leading into return to John Roberts Square
There is ample pay-and-display car Cathedral Square. On the and turn right into Great
parking along the quays beside the right, the 13th-century Chorister’s George’s Street. On the left, a palatial
River Suir. Hall 3 incorporates two medieval townhouse built in 1795 for the
Tourist Information buildings housing Waterford’s Morris family, also by Roberts, now
Waterford Discover Ireland Centre, Medieval Collection. To the left stands contains the Waterford Chamber of
Parade Quay; 051 875 823; www. the Protestant Christ Church Commerce 8. Head along O’Connell
discoverireland.ie (open Mon–Sat)
Cathedral 4 (open daily), also Street and left into Thomas Street to
Shopping designed by Roberts and built on Henry Downes 9, a famous pub (see
The Quays and their narrow side
streets contain a number of long- the site of a 12th-century church. Its right). Walk down to Merchants Quay
established shops, including Shaws medieval remnants include a crypt and along the river back to the start.
department store (The Quay; 051 872 containing the 1481 cadaver tomb ª Leaving the city, take the R675 to
977; www.shaws.ie) and Kelly’s (The of James Rice, a former mayor of Tramore. Park near the Lifeguard
Quay, 051 873 557), selling Waterford Waterford. Depicting a badly decayed Station by Tramore Strand.
crystal, linen and ladies’ fashion.
Barronstrand Street has smaller
independent shops.
THOMAS ST Henry MERCHANTS QUAY PARADE S u i r
Downes
O ‘ C O N N E L L S T
WHERE TO STAY IN Waterford Chamber GREAT GEORGE’S ST BARRON QUAY CUS TOM H O U S
Catholic
WATERFORD CITY of Commerce Cathedral
John Roberts BROAD STRAND ST
Square
STREET
Chorister’s
Granville Hotel moderate ST H I G H S T R E E T HENRIETTA E QUAY Reginald’s
Hall
Long-established and well-run CATHEDRAL Tower
independent hotel on the river. P A T R I C K S T R E E T Christ Church SQUARE
Elegant public rooms, furnished with Cathedral T H E M A L L
City Hall
paintings and antiques, and a range of 0 metres 200 M I C H A E L S T LADY LANE
Bishop’s Palace
comfortable guest rooms. SPRING GARDEN ALLEY
Meagher Quay; 051 305 555; 0 yards 200
www.granville-hotel.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
074-077_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 74 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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