Page 79 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 5: Viking Country 77

though there has been a castle on
this spot since the 12th century. Fred
Astaire’s sister Adele, who married
the second son of the 9th Duke of
Devonshire, lived here for some
years. The gardens (open daily)
contain a collection of modern
sculpture and a lovely riverside walk.
The town has two cathedrals
dedicated to St Carthage, the late
19th-century Catholic Cathedral,
and the Protestant Cathedral of
St Carthage (1633), which has Gothic
vaulting and a stained-glass window
by the Pre-Raphaelite artist Edward Above Mount Melleray abbey at the foot of
Burne-Jones. 0 Clogheen the Knockmealdown Mountains
ª Return to Cappoquin and take the Co Tipperary
R669 towards Tipperary. Turn right at A small market town on the River
the Cats Bar to Mount Melleray. Tar, Clogheen was a prosperous mill
town in the 18th and 19th centuries, EAT AND DRINK
9 Mount Melleray as a smattering of fine Georgian
Co Waterford townhouses testifies. Three kilometres DUNGARVAN
Set on the bare slopes of the (2 miles) east of town, off the R665, are Quealy’s moderate
Knockmealdown Mountains, the the remains of Castle Grace, an Anglo- A busy and friendly café bar in the
Cistercian abbey at Mount Melleray Norman castle with a tower at each centre of town with daily specials
(open daily) was founded in 1832 by corner; 8 km (5 miles) west, also on the such as a seafood platter.
Irish monks expelled from France. R665, is Ballyporeen, where former US O’Connell St; 058 24555
The monks observe a rule of silence president Ronald Reagan came to The Tannery expensive
but keep a tradition of hospitality; it celebrate his Irish roots in 1984. This is regarded as one of the country’s
finest restaurants, reinventing many
is usual to make an offering. Visitors ª From Clogheen, go back along Irish classics using the best local
can view most areas in the abbey the R668 and take the first left, produce. Booking advisable.
and have tea in the restaurant. following signs to Newcastle. Pass Quay St; 058 45420; www.tannery.ie;
On leaving Mount Melleray, return through Goats Bridge and Newcastle closed Mon
to the R669 and turn right to join the to Ballymacarbry. HELVICK HEAD
R668 for an exhilarating drive An Seanachaí moderate
through the Gap, the road’s highest Ballymacarbry A thatched cottage has been
point, and the Vee, a series of hairpin Co Waterford converted to a cosy bar, with good
bends, to Clogheen. On the way, look This village is an ideal base for food, on the road from Dungarvan.
Pulla Cross, An Rinn (Ring); 058 46755;
out for the beehive-shaped tomb exploring the majestic Comeragh www.seanachai.ie
of Samuel Grubb (1750–1815) on Mountains, either on foot or by car.
Sugarloaf Mountain. One-time owner The Nire Valley Drive (signposted LISMORE
of Castle Grace, near Clogheen, off the R671 east of town) into the Summer House Cafe inexpensive
Grubb was buried upright in order, mountains is a spectacular route Hidden away to the rear of a gift
shop, this sweet little place has all
it is said, to overlook his land. flanked by the Comeragh range manner of baked goodies, as well
ª Carry on to Clogheen and park on to the right and the dramatic as simple lunches.
the street. Punchbowl formation to the left. Main Street; 058 54148; closed Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS stopping at the Geological Garden. picturesque Cappoquin 7 and
Spend a day on the coast or in In the late afternoon, the sun brings Lismore 8, with an exciting ride
Waterford’s inland valleys. out the colours of the cliff face. through the Knockmealdown
Mountains to Clogheen 0.
Leaving Waterford City take the R675
Tramore and the Copper Coast all the way to Dungarvan. Return From Cappoquin take the N72 to
Begin at Tramore 2, taking in the by the same route or cut inland along Lismore. From there take the R668 to
beach and seafront attractions, and a the N25. join the R669 and head north through
walk along the sandspit east of town. the Knockmealdown Mountains to
Afterwards head along the Copper Mountains and valleys Clogheen. Return to Cappoquin on
Coast to Dungarvan 5 via Combine a gentle drive along the the R669, making a detour to Mount
Annestown 3 and Bunmahon 4, lovely Blackwater Valley, stopping in Melleray if there is time.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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