Page 85 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 6: Kilkenny’s Medieval Treasures 83

Dukes of Ormonde turning right at the end. Turn down a
In 1391 Edmund Butler, the third slipway and through a gate in the
Earl of Ormonde bought Kilkenny castle walls. Turn left to follow the
Castle, a move designed to canal (which merges with the river)
consolidate the family’s power in
Kilkenny and Tipperary. Butlers of to St John’s Bridge. Turn left up Rose
various branches influenced life in Inn Street, where the Tourist
the region for nearly 500 years. Information Office (open Mon–Sat) 0
Their strength lay in their loyalty to occupies a medieval almshouse, and
the English Crown, their disdain of take St Kieran’s Street to the car park.
Irish ways and their success in ª Leave the city centre by Patrick
dismantling the power of the
Catholic Geraldines. Street (N10) and turn right at Kells Road
(R697). In Kells, drive to top of village
and turn left to Kells Priory.
13th-century Dominican Friary with
fine stained-glass windows. From here, 2 Kells
head down Abbey Lane, through Black Not to be confused with the more
Freren Gate. On the right are remnants famous Kells Monastery in Meath,
of the city walls. Turn right onto 13th-century Kells Priory lies at the
Parliament Street to arcaded Rothe end of a sloping field, accessed
House (open daily) 5, a medieval through a kissing gate. Its fortified
merchant’s house. Continuing up towers and connecting walls date Above The 15th-century cloisters of Jerpoint
Parliament Street, veer left down St from the 15th century. Abbey, one of Ireland’s finest Cistercian ruins
Kieran’s Street, past Kyteler’s Inn 6, a ª Turn left from the priory. After
good place to enjoy a pint of ale. It 3 km (2 miles) turn right at a
was once the home of Alice Kyteler, T-junction, signed for Mount Juliet.
convicted of witchcraft in the 14th At the junction with the R448, turn EAT AND DRINK IN
century. Kyteler fled the country, but left. Jerpoint Abbey is just before KILKENNY CITY
her maid was sent to the stake. The Thomastown.
presiding judge, Bishop Ledrede, is Kyteler’s Inn inexpensive
buried in St Canice’s graveyard. 3 Jerpoint Abbey The former home of convicted witch
Alice Kyteler in the 14th century, this
Continue along St Kieran’s Street Founded in 1180, this Cistercian historic inn serves Smithwick’s beer,
and turn right up the Butter Slip, the abbey is a daughter house of brewed in Kilkenny since 1710.
old butter market, to Main Street. On Mellifont Abbey (see p159). Its tower Kieran’s St; 056 776 1064;
the left is the Tholsel 7, a Georgian and battlements stand out proudly, www.kytelersinn.com
remodelling of the medieval and there is still a sense of its former Mocha’s Vintage Tea Room
exchequer and subsequent Town Hall. grandeur. Most of the buildings still inexpensive
Turn left up High Street and fork left standing date from the 15th century, Lovely old world decor and top-notch
tea, coffee, cakes and savoury snacks.
up the Parade to the castle, stopping but the abbey’s principal attraction 4 The Arches; 056 777 0565; closed Sun
to look at Irish crafts in the Kilkenny lies in its details. The carvings in the
Design Centre 8, (open daily) in the cloister are the most ornate of any Kilkenny Design Centre
moderate
castle’s stable block. The Castle (open religious building in Ireland, with Self-service restaurant in the castle’s
daily) 9 was the seat of the Dukes of knights, courtly ladies, bishops and former dairy and stables. Consistently
Ormonde for 500 years. Inside, the dragons. Enjoy a scone at Jerpoint good food at reasonable prices.
Long Gallery (1820s) has a hammer Park, a heritage site that is only a The Parade; 056 772 2118;
beam roof painted with motifs from few minutes away by car. www.kilkennydesign.com
the Book of Kells. From the castle gates, ª Turn right on leaving the abbey Rinuccini moderate
follow the path around the lawn, and drive into Thomastown. Bustling Italian restaurant conveniently
located opposite Kilkenny Castle. Offers
good quality and outstanding value.
Parade; 056 776 1575;
www.rinuccini.com
La Campagne expensive
This Michelin-starred restaurant delivers
seriously good modern French food in a
relaxed setting.
5 Gashouse Lane; 056 777 2858; www.
campagne.ie; closed Sun dinner & Mon
Far left Mullins Mill Museum, next to Kells
Priory Left The 15th-century fortified towers
of Kells Priory

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