Page 87 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 6: Kilkenny’s Medieval Treasures 85

Above left Traditional bar at
7 Borris ª Exiting Borris, follow the R702 as Graiguenamanagh Above right Colourful
Co Carlow far as Gowran. Just before the village, narrow boats moored on the River Barrow
Nestling in the Barrow valley below turn right onto the R448, signposted at Graiguenamanagh
the Blackstairs Mountains, this is Carlow (19 km/12 miles).
a pretty village with a cluster of EAT AND DRINK
Georgian houses. Its two main 8 Carlow Town
landmarks are the Regency-styled Co Carlow INISTIOGE
Borris House (tours May–Sep: Tue–Thu; The county town of Ireland’s second- Footlights inexpensive
www.borrishouse.com), ancestral home smallest county, Carlow was an A riverside bistro offering pretty views,
of the High Kings of Leinster, and Anglo-Norman stronghold guarding light dining and evening meals.
the 16-arch viaduct at the bottom of the River Barrow. Its position on the The Square; 086 361 9411;
www.footlights.ie
the town. In the 1800s Borris experi- fringes of the English Pale, the
enced a period of prosperity, thanks protected area around Dublin, gave The Otter inexpensive
The best of Inistioge’s several pubs,
to its sawmills and lace industry. it a significant role in the history of with summer barbecues, superb ales
For a time Borris lace enjoyed an Ireland. During the 1798 rebellion and live music at weekends.
international reputation. 600 rebels were massacred here after High St; 087 061 9015
attempting to take the town. The GRAIGUENAMANAGH
Liberty Tree sculpture off Hanover
Street commemorates this event. Waterside Restaurant and
Guesthouse inexpensive
Standing next to the River Barrow Stone warehouse on the bank
are the ruins of Carlow Castle. It of the River Barrow. Smoked eel
survived many sieges, including one from the river is a signature dish.
by Oliver Cromwell, but was finally The Quay; 059 972 4246;
laid to waste by a Dr Middleton in www.watersideguesthouse.com
1814. Determined to convert the BORRIS
castle into an asylum, he set about The Stephouse Hotel moderate
reducing the thickness of its walls Smart hotel with a classy restaurant and
with explosives, eventually causing brasserie, both offering classic Irish
their demolition. Other buildings of cooking with a modern twist.
note are the Neo-Gothic Catholic 66 Main St; 059 0773209;
www.stephousehotel.ie
Cathedral and St Mary’s Church of
Above Borris House, ancestral home of the Ireland, both dating from the early
High Kings of Leinster 19th century.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS grave of the judge who convicted in countryside south of Kilkenny City.
Kilkenny City is a good base to Alice Kyteler of witchcraft in Kells has fortified walls and towers;
explore the area. Kilkenny City can the 14th century, and admire the Jerpoint is known for its carvings.
be quickly accessed along the M9 13th-century east window. Afterwards head to Inistioge 5 to
from Waterford City and the M7 Afterwards head for the castle, seat see Woodstock Gardens and have
(then N8 and N77) from Dublin. of the Butler family for 500 years. lunch overlooking the River Nore.
Kilkenny City can be explored on foot. From Kilkenny City, head south along
Kilkenny’s Castle and Cathedral the R697 Kells Road (or faster N10 to
The highlights of Kilkenny City 1 Abbeys and gardens Stonyford and turn right), then cut east
can easily fill a whole day. Climb Just a few kilometres apart are Kells to Jerpoint via Mount Juliet, and then
the cathedral’s round tower, find the Priory 2 and Jerpoint Abbey 3, set south along the R700 to Inistioge.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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