Page 86 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

84 BACK ROADS IRELAND

4 Thomastown meticulously restored and feature an
Co Kilkenny arboretum, a monkey puzzle walk,
Strategically important in medieval dovecote and grotto. Derelict
times, this market town gives few Woodstock House, burnt down in the
hints of the walled town it once was, civil war of 1922, gives an extra
save for its old stone bridge over the poignancy to the garden.
River Nore and the 13th-century ª Leaving Inistioge, cross the arched
ruins of St Mary’s Church. A pleasant, bridge and take the first left to
2 km (1 mile) walk along the river Graiguenamanagh (11 km/7 miles)
leads to the 13th-century shell of almost immediately after the bridge.
Grennan Castle. Arriving in Graiguenamanagh, drive
ª Turn left onto The Quay and follow up the hill, past Duiske Abbey, to the
signs for the R700 towards New Ross car park on right.
and Inistioge.
6 Graiguenamanagh
Statutes of Kilkenny Co Carlow
In 1366 the English Crown decided Once a place of significant
that the Anglo-Norman rulers of ecclesiastical importance,
Ireland were becoming too Graiguenamanagh (Granary of the
enamoured of Irish ways and Monks) is a small market town on
customs. Fearful of losing its grip, it the River Barrow. Occupying centre
enacted the much-hated “Statutes
Above View over the small market town of of Kilkenny”. Under the new laws, stage is Duiske Abbey (open Mon–Fri),
Graiguenamanagh intermarriage between Anglo- founded in 1204 by Cistercian
Normans and Irish was an act of monks. After the Dissolution of
high treason, and Norman settlers the Monasteries in 1536, it was
WHERE TO STAY speaking Irish, adopting Irish dress abandoned and fell into gradual
or wearing their hair long in the Irish decline, the tower finally collapsing
style risked forfeiting their lands.
THOMASTOWN in 1774. In the early 19th century
Ballyduff House parts of the church were roofed and
inexpensive-moderate 5 Inistioge mass was celebrated here once
Handsome and elegant 18th-century Co Kilkenny again. Most of the present building
house overlooking the River Suir. Picture-perfect Inistioge sits dates from this period. However, it
Guests are free to avail themselves of
the gorgeous library and drawing room. elegantly on the River Nore, the ideal retains some original features, in
Thomastown; 056 775 8488; setting for an Irish country drama. It’s particular a Romanesque doorway,
www.ballyduffhouse.ie no surprise then that Circle of Friends an effigy of a Norman knight and by
GRAIGUENAMANAGH (1995), starring Minnie Driver, and the main entrance the original fleur-
Widow’s Peak (1994), with Mia Farrow, de-lis paving stones. A second
Waterside Guesthouse inexpensive
Originally a corn store for the local were both filmed here. There is a restoration was undertaken in the
boatmen, this has been sensitively lovely riverside walk, and the nine- 1970s, and the abbey is now a
converted into a delightful guesthouse. arch stone bridge – the largest in working parish church.
All the rooms overlook the River Barrow. Ireland – is a source of local pride. ª Exiting the abbey’s car park drive
The Quay; 059 972 4246; www.waterside Unusually in Ireland, the Catholic and uphill to the roundabout. Take the
guesthouse.com; closed Nov–Feb
Anglican churches stand side by side. third exit onto Borris Road. At the
AROUND GRAIGUENAMANAGH Just above the town are Woodstock junction with the R702 turn right for
Mulvarra House inexpensive Gardens (open daily), which are being Borris (2 km/1 mile).
On a hill overlooking picturesque St
Mullins village, 6 km (4 miles) south
of Graiguenamanagh. Breakfast and
dinner are impressive. Some rooms
have a balcony view over the valley.
St Mullins, Co Carlow; 051 424 936;
www.mulvarra.com
CARLOW TOWN
Barrowville Townhouse inexpensive
Period house near the town centre.
Serves hearty breakfasts.
Kilkenny Rd; 059 914 3324;
www.barrowville.com
Right Riverside garden in the attractive
village of Inistioge

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