Page 306 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Japan
P. 306

on earth, Kiyohira enriched the
                                                9th-century temples Chuson-ji
                                                and Motsu-ji. Chuson-ji is five
                                                minutes by bus from the sta-
                                                tion, followed by a long climb
                                                lined with towering Japanese
                                                cedars. Only two of its many
                                                original buildings remain: the
                                                small Golden Hall, splendid
                                                with gold leaf, lacquer, and
                                                mother of pearl, where the
                                                first three Fujiwara leaders are
                                                buried; and the Sutra Hall. In
                                                the Treasure Hall are precious
                                                artifacts from the Fuji wara
                                                coffins and the temple.
                                                  All that remains of the
                                                original Motsu-ji (a ten-minute
                                                walk from the station) are its
          Buying fresh oysters at the Shiogama   foundations and beautiful
          Wholesale Fish Market, in Matsushima  Heian-period paradise
                                                garden, the best in Japan.
        7                   Although the tsunami of
                            March 2011 caused wide spread
        Matsushima          destruction along Japan’s   9
        松島                  northeast coast, Matsushima   Tsuruoka
                            was spared thanks to the   鶴岡
        ! G3   ⌂ Miyagi Prefecture     numerous islands in its bay.
        £ To Matsumisha and   These pine-covered islets    ! F2   ⌂ Yamagata
        Matsushima-Kaigan                       Prefecture   £   n City Office,
        g From Shiogama   n By   are the reason Matsushima   9-25 Baba-cho; (0235) 25-
        Matsushima sightseeing   became renowned as one of   2111
                            Japan’s “three famous views.”
        boat pier; (022) 354-2263
                                                Tsuruoka was the Sakai clan’s
        Take a hint from Matsuo                 castle seat. Best of this friendly
        Basho’s 1689 visit to the bay   8       town’s attractions is the Chido
        of Matsushima (p306) and                Museum, west of the former
        make Shiogama your starting   Hiraizumi   castle grounds. It includes a
        point. The busy Shiogama   平泉           kabuto-zukuri (helmet-style)
        Wholesale Fish Market, active   ! G2   ⌂ Iwate Prefecture      farmhouse, and marvelous
        from early morning until                folk objects such as lac quered
        about 1pm, is known for its   £   n Next to JR Stn; (0191)
                            46-2110
        huge tuna auctions. Make
        time to lunch at one of   Nine hundred years ago,
        Shiogama’s superb sushi   the Northern Fujiwara clan,
        restaurants before taking    under Fujiwara Kiyohira, made
        the ferry to Matsushima.  this small town into a cultural
                            and econo mic capital, second
                            only to Kyoto. Three genera-
             HIDDEN GEM     tions later, Hiraizumi was in
             For Sake’s Sake  ruins. Yoshitsune, Japan’s
          Niigata, set across the   archetypal tragic hero, had
          water from Sado Island,   sought refuge here from
          is known as the home of   Yoritomo, his jealous brother
          sake. Founded in 1767,   and Japan’s first shogun, but
          Imayotsukasa offers a   was betrayed by Yasuhira,
          free tour that illustrates   the last Fujiwara leader, and
          the history of sake and   killed. Yoritomo then turned
          the brewery, and, of   against Yasuhira and had
          course, with a tasting    the clan wiped out.
          at the end (www.    At its peak, Hiraizumi had a
          imayotsukasa.co.jp/en).  population of 100,000. Wishing
                            to create a Buddhist paradise
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