Page 109 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Ireland

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t Dalkey
Co Dublin. £ DART.
∑ ilovedalkey.com
Dalkey was once known as
the “Town of Seven Castles”, but
only two of these now remain.
They are both on the main street
of this attractive village whose
tight, winding roads and
charming villas give it a
Mediterranean feel.
A little way offshore is
tiny Dalkey Island, a rocky bird
sanctuary with a Martello tower
Yachts anchored in Dun Laoghaire harbour and a medieval Benedictine
church, both now in a poor
villas, parks and palm trees can as the guest of Oliver St John state of repair. In summer
sometimes exude a decidedly Gogarty, poet and model for the island can be reached by
continental feel. Dun Laoghaire the Ulysses character Buck a boat ride from the town’s
(pronounced Dunleary) offers Mulligan. Gogarty rented the Coliemore Harbour.
some magnificent walks tower for a mere £8 per year.
around the harbour and to Inside the squat 12-m (40-ft)
the lighthouse along the east tower’s granite walls is a y Killiney
pier. The villages of Sandycove small museum run by a Co Dublin. £ DART to Dalkey
and Dalkey can be reached via group of local volunteers, or Killiney.
“The Metals” footpath which containing some of Joyce’s
runs alongside the railway line. correspondence, personal South of Dalkey, the coastal
The 1837 Mariners’ Church belongings, such as his guitar, road climbs uphill before
is housed in the National cigar case and walking tumbling down into the village
Maritime Museum. stick, and his death mask. of Killiney. The route offers one
Exhibits include a There are also photo- of the most scenic vistas on
longboat used by graphs and first editions this stretch of the east coast,
French officers of his works, including a with views often compared to
during Wolfe Tone’s deluxe edition (1935) of those across the Bay of Naples.
unsuccessful invasion Ulysses illustrated by Howth Head is clearly visible
at Bantry in 1796 (see Henri Matisse. The to the north, with Bray Head
pp172–3). roof, originally a gun (see p137) and the foothills of
Up the road platform but later used the Wicklow Mountains (see
in Monkstown’s Guitar at as a sunbathing deck pp142–3) to the south. There is
Belgrave Square is the James Joyce Tower by Gogarty, affords another exhilarating view from
Comhaltas Ceoltóirí marvellous views of the top of Killiney Hill Park, off
Éireann, Ireland’s main centre Dublin Bay. Below the tower is Victoria Road – well worth
for traditional music and dance, Forty Foot Pool, tradition ally an tackling the short steep trail for.
which puts on music sessions all-male nude bathing spot, but Down below is the popular
and céilís (dances). now open to all. pebbly beach, Killiney Strand.
r James Joyce
Tower
Sandycove, Co Dublin. Tel 280 9265.
£ DART to Sandycove. @ 59, 7/A.
Open 10am–6pm daily. & =
∑ jamesjoycetower.com
This Martello tower stands on a
rocky promontory above the
village of Sandycove. It is one of
15 defensive towers erected
between Dublin and Bray in
1804 to withstand a threatened
invasion by Napoleon. One
hundred years later James Joyce
(see p94) stayed here for a week Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre on Castle Street

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