Page 111 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 10: Mountains and Lakes 109

6 Udine EAT AND DRINK
Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33100
Midway between the mountains and TARVISIO
sea, Udine is a small powerhouse of Tschurwald moderate
art, architecture and gastronomy. An interesting mix of Austrian and
Start out from Piazza della Libertà, Italian food is on the menu here: home-
referred to the most beautiful made pasta, polenta with local cheese
Venetian square on dry land – the sauce and game dishes in season.
Via Roma 8, 33018; 0428 405 34;
city was conquered by Venice in closed Thu
1420 – ringed by fine 15th–17th-
century buildings whose façades MALBORGHETTO
are an elaborate lacework of arches Antica Trattoria Da Giusi moderate
and porticoes. Among these are the Savour cooking that reveals the strong
culinary link between Alpine Italy and
Venetian-Gothic Loggia del Lionello Austria – soups, air-dried meats, smoked
and the Renaissance Loggia di San pork with sauerkraut and desserts.
Above Fresco from the Duomo di Sant’Andrea Giovanni. The Torre dell’Orologio Via Bamberga 19, 33010; 0428 60014;
Apostolo, Venzone (clock tower), where the main castle www.dagiusi.it; closed Tue
gate once stood, is part of another VENZONE
17th-century Palazzo Veneziano, portico. From here, take the path to Locanda al Municipio
which houses the Museo Etnografico the old castle, whose Civici Musei di moderate–expensive
(closed Mon), an ethnographic Udine (closed Mon) houses valuable This restaurant in the heart of Venzone
museum with displays on geology, frescoes in the Galleria d’Arte Antica. if famous for its fish-based dishes and
prehistory, ethnology and forestry. Piazza Matteotti, with its 1543 seasonal homemade pasta.
ª Return to the SS13, following fountain, is the heart of the city’s Via Glizoio di Mels, 33010; 0432
985801; www.locandaalmunicipio.
directions to Udine. Turn off to elegant café and shopping zone – com; closed Mon
Venzone. Park outside the walls reached by the old market street,
or near Piazza Municipio. Via Mercatovecchio. Lastly, pass in AROUND VENZONE
front of the Palazzo del Comune and Hotel Ristorante Carnia expensive
5 Venzone head to the Piazza del Duomo to see This highly feted restaurant is bright
and contemporary, with a menu based
Udine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33010 the Latin cross-shaped cathedral on seafood and classic Friulian dishes.
The medieval town of Venzone (open daily), whose foundations date Via Canal del Ferro 28, Loc. Carnia,
prospered due to its position on an to 1335. Masterful 18th-century 33010 (6 km/4 miles north of
old trading route linking the Veneto frescoes by Tiepolo can be seen in Venzone on SS13); 0432 978 013;
to Carinthia (Austria), Kranjska Gora the Museo Diocesano (closed Tue), www.hotelcarnia.it
(Slovenia) and Bavaria. In 1976, an housed in the Palazzo Arcivescovile UDINE
earthquake killed 3,000 people and (Archbishop’s Palace). La Ciacarade moderate
destroyed most of the town’s ª Take the SS54 northeast following This wood-beamed restaurant has a
buildings. However, the citizens signs for Cividale del Friuli. handful of tables plus a long bar. Enjoy
rallied and rebuilt them with smoked trout, cheese fritters with onion
and prosciutto cotto d’oca all’arancio –
meticulous care, skilfully renovating Below Statue of Heracles in the beautiful Piazza orange-flavoured goose prosciutto.
many medieval treasues – the town della Libertà, Udine Below right The decorated Via S Francesco 6/A, 33100; 0432 510
is now a historic monument. window of a lavender shop in Venzone 250; closed Sun & Tue dinner
Admire the walls, tower and old
gate, the Porta San Genesio, as well
as the loggia on Piazza Municipio,
whose excellent museum has
pictures and displays of Venzone
before and after the earthquake. The
14th-century Duomo di Sant’Andrea
Apostolo (open daily) is a noteworthy
Romanesque-Gothic edifice whose
interior is adorned with frescoes. Also
of interest is the Duomo’s chapel,
Cappella di San Michele, which
contains mummified corpses. On the
other side of the SS13, visit Bordano
and its delightful butterfly house
(Mar–Oct: open daily), home to more
than 400 species of butterfly.
ª Continue south on SS13 to Udine.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

108-113_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 109 21/09/17 11:19 am