Page 112 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

110 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

8 Colli Orientali
Friuli-Venezia Giulia
It is worth taking some time to explore
this lovely, hilly vineyard area between
Cividale del Friuli and Cormòns. Several
indigenous grape varieties – rarely
found elsewhere – are grown here.
Look out for the per fumed red
Schioppettino and deli cately sweet
Picolit, which can yield a dessert wine
of great finesse. At Prepotto, there
are two vineyards that offer a taste
of these exceptional wines – Vigna
Petrussa (Via Albana 47, 33040,
Prepotto; 043 271 3021; www.
vignapetrussa.it) and Le Due Terre (Via
Roma 68/B, 33040, Prepotto; 043 271
3189; www.schioppettinodiprepotto.it).
ª Continue on the small wine road
via Dolegna del Collio, Venco and
Brazzano to reach Cormòns.
Above left River Natisone, Cividale del Friuli 9 Cormòns
Top right Statues in the Tempietto Longobardo, 7 Cividale del Friuli Gorizia, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 34071
Cividale del Friuli Right Piazza Paolo Diacono, Udine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33043 Cormòns was part of the Habsburg
site of the daily market in Cividale del Friuli Set on the banks of the River Empire from 1497 to 1918, and its
Natisone, Friuli traces its name architecture and statue of Maximilian
and origin to a Roman fortification I in Piazza della Libertà are testimony
WHERE TO STAY that was built here in 53 BC and to its historical inheritance. The town
christened Forum Julii by Julius still toasts the Austrian Emperor
CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI Caesar. In AD 568, it became the Franz Joseph (1830–1916) on his
B&B Dai Toscans inexpensive capital of the feudal Duchy of birthday (Aug 18). The ruins of the
This central B&B has a stylish interior Lombard and later, like much of this Castello di Cormòns can be seen on
and serves up a delicious breakfast. region, fell under the dominion of the slopes of nearby Monte Quarin.
Corso Giuseppe Mazzini 15/1, 33043; the mighty Venetian Republic. The Today this small town, surrounded
0349 076 5288; www.daitoscans.it
town contains treasures from all of by vineyards, is the capital of the Collio
Locanda al Pomo d’Oro inexpensive these epochs concentrated around wine business. The Franco Toros (Loc.
Located in the centre of town, this its historic centre and the eclectic Novali 12, 34072; 048 1613 27; www.
modest hotel still serves its original
purpose of providing travellers with 15th–17th-century cathedral, Santa vinitoros.com) is a must-visit for wine
shelter, tasty food and good wine. Maria Assunta, in the Piazza del lovers. Cormòn’s long main street, lined
Piazzetta San Giovanni 20, 33043; Duomo. Take the cobbled lane with palaces and noble resi dences,
0432 731 489; www.alpomodoro.com through the oldest section of town, loops around from the Piazza XXIV
Locanda al Castello moderate past 14th-century houses, to the Maggio, home to the Palazzo Locatelli.
A 20-minute walk from the centre, this 8th-century frescoes and reliefs at This Palladian-style edifice houses an
family-run inn offers old-fashioned the Tempietto Longobardo. From the enoteca (wine shop), which showcases
charm with the amenities and
services of a luxury hotel. chapel, there are wonderful views of and serves local produce and wines.
Via del Castello 12, 33043; the Ponte del Diavolo and the Maps of wine routes are available here.
0432 733 242; www.alcastello.net aquamarine River Natisone. Nearby, ª Take Via Roma/SR409, turn right
the 16th-century Palazzo dei towards San Floriano in Localitá Zegla.
CORMÒNS Provveditori Veneti attributed to the
Agriturismo Domus Rustica master architect Andrea Palladio 0 Collio: Strada del Vino
inexpensive
Set in bucolic vineyards just 2 km houses the Museo Archeologico Gorizia, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 34170
(1 mile) outside Cormòns. Nazionale (open daily). From the Collio is the colloquial name given to
Via Sottomonte 75, Brazzano 34071; museum, take the main street, Corso the sloping Isonzo hills to the north
0481 60288; www.domus-rustica.it Mazzini, up to the Piazza Paolo of Gorizia. Wedged between Cormòns
Albergo Ristorante Felcaro Diacono with its pretty fountain and a and the Slovenian border, this narrow
moderate myriad architectural styles. strip of land is a pleasant patchwork of
A fine, antique-filled villa with a ª Take the SR356 south, follow the vineyards, orchards and, more recently,
sauna, pool and tennis courts.
Via S Giovanni 45, 34071; signposts for Prepotto, travelling on olive groves. Follow the network of
0481 60214; www.hotelfelcaro.it SP352 and SR48. tiny roads forming the signposted
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200

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