Page 113 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 10: Mountains and Lakes 111

EAT AND DRINK
CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI
Al Monastero moderate
Set in an old monastery, this eatery
offers classic Friulian dishes, including
top quality hams and salamis and a
good choice of home-made pasta and
meat dishes. Desserts include strucchi
(fruit- and nut-filled pastries).
Via Ristori 9, 33043; 043 270 0808;
Strada del Vino e delle Ciliegie (Wine a huge complex containing a winery, www.almonastero.com; closed Sun
eve & Mon
and Cherry Route). Between the a golf course and a hotel.
mountains and sea, the microclimate ª From Zegla, turn right towards Antica Osteria La Speranza
and “ponka” soils (marl, clay-limestone) Capriva del Friuli, cross Capriva’s expensive
This historic bar and osteria serves
help create many celebrated DOC centre turn right and after the railway traditional fish dishes with a modern
white wines – Pinot Grigio, Friulano, station turn left onto SR56 to Gorizia. twist. The blackboard menu is
Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana. complemented by a good wine list.
Maps, available by the roadside on q Gorizia Foro Giulio Cesare 15, 33043; 043 273
the way out of town and in tourist Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 34170 1131; closed Mon
brochures, mark out the wineries The 11th-century Castello di Gorizia AROUND COLLI ORIENTALLE
with tasting rooms. Pay close attention (closed Mon) hilltop district is an enclave Al Cjant dal Rusignul expensive
to the maps and signposts, as a of medieval architecture: the castle This attractive country restaurant is
wrong turn could lead to Slovenia. has glorious views. The nearby quarter renowned for its home-made pasta,
Follow signs to Russiz – where the of Santo Spirito is home to the Gothic mushroom and game. Good wine list.
Via Mernico, 8 34070 Mernico-Dolegna
vineyards are spread across the Chiesa di Santo Spirito and the Musei del Collio (just east of Prepotto); 048
hillsides. The splendid estate of Villa Provinciali (closed Mon), which houses 160 452; www.ferrucciosgubin.it;
Russiz (Via Russiz 4–6, 34070, Capriva displays on World War I and regional closed Mon–Wed
del Friuli; 0481 800 47; open Mon–Fri), history. In the mesh of medieval, CORMÒNS
founded in 1869 by French Count Baroque and 19th-century architecture Trattoria Al Cacciatore expensive
Theodore de la Tour, was one of the in the town below, there are walkways A local landmark, this upmarket
first wineries in Friuli to use French along the River Isonzo and fine villas restaurant prepares traditional dishes
vine varieties. The villa has tasting such as the Palazzo Coronini- with great finesse using the best local
rooms, a park, a chapel and a small Cronberg (closed Mon & Tue; Nov–Mar), ingredients. Località Monte 22, 34701;
mausoleum whose tiled cupola which is set in magnificent parklands. 048 160 531; www.lasubida.it; closed
Tue & Wed
perches above rows of vines. The ª Take the SS351 to Gradisca d’Isonzo
count’s wife had the mausoleum and continue to Cervignano del Friuli. AROUND CORMÒNS
built for him in 1894. From here, take the SS352 to Aquileia. Terra e Vini moderate
From Russiz, continue towards This beautifully renovated osteria has
Capriva del Friuli, stopping at Top Hillside vineyards along the wooded Strada an interesting menu with cold meats,
pasta and frico (fried cheese delicacy).
Castello di Spessa (open daily). This del Vino Below left Townhouses on the curving Via XXIV Maggio 34, 34071 Brazzano di
medieval castle was altered in the main street of Cormòns Below right The Cormòns; 048 160 028; www.terraevini.
1880s and is now the centrepiece of 11th-century Castello di Gorizia it; closed Sun eve & Mon, 3 wks Jan

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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