Page 115 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 10: Mountains and Lakes 113

Far left The clifftop Castello di Duino Centre
the Canal Grande 3: dug in 1756 to Giusto 0 (open daily). Across Piazza The 18th-century Canal Grande in Trieste
allow ships to unload inside the city. delle Cattedrale stands the Gothic Right Caffè degli Specchi, founded in 1839,
The canalside Via Rossini 4 is lined stone lacework and trilobite arches in Trieste’s Piazza dell’Unità dell’Italia
with restaurants, bars and markets, of the Cattedrale di San Giusto q, a
leading to Piazza Ponterosso. James fusion of two 15th-century churches EAT AND DRINK
Joyce’s statue adorns the bridge. The – hence its asymmetrical façade. AQUILEIA
Irish writer lived in Trieste for over a Look to the right of the rose window La Capannina moderate
decade. Cross the bridge to the Piazza for two huge cannon balls wedged Overlooking the ancient harbor of
Ponterosso and head for the church, into the wall. Head downhill on Via Aquileia, serving a variety of fish dishes
the Chiesa di San Spiridione 5, a della Cattedrale into suitably windy Via Gemina 10, Aquileia, 33051; 0431
Neo-Byzantine Serbian Orthodox Via della Bora (Northeast Wind Street) 91019; www.ristorantelacapannina.
net; closed Wed in winter
church. Take Via Dante Alighieri back and on to the Arco di Riccardo w, a
to the Corso Italia, and cross over to crumbling Roman gateway from the DUINO
the gaping pit of the Teatro Romano 1st century BC. Turn right and trace Sardoc moderate
6, a Roman amphitheatre built by the walls of the Chiesa Santa Maria Robust cuisine such as jota (a thick
Emperor Augustus around 30 BC. Maggiore perched on a ledge over cabbage, beans and potato soup),
The steps alongside the Teatro lead the old town – alongside the small followed by veal shanks and strudel.
Loc. Slivia 5, 34013 Duino-Aurisina;
to the Tor Cucherna 7, the ruins of a Chiesa di San Silvestro e. A wide 040 200 146; www.sardoc.eu; closed
medieval tower, with fantastic views stairway leads down to the Via del Mon–Wed
from the street above. From here, take Teatro Romano. Cross the street and TRIESTE
the Treppe Giuseppe Rota stair way for head back to Piazza dell’Unità past
the final climb up to the hilltop of San the pretty square of Piazza Piccola. Osteria da Marino moderate
This tavern serves Mediterranean staples
Giusto. Named after one of the city’s Museum lovers may wish to see the such as mozzarella with tomatoes and
patron saints, this area has Roman unofficial museum quarter – near Ligurian olives in a jovial ambience.
relics, medieval churches, public Piazza Hortis – with three museums: Via del Ponte 5/A, 34100; 040 366 596;
gardens and viewpoints. The piazza the Civico Museo di Storia ed Arte www.osteriadamarino.com; closed
around the Monumento ai Caduti 8, e Orto Lapidario (archaeology), the Sat & Sun lunch
a World War I memorial, is a popular Civico Museo di Storia Naturale Pepenero Pepebianco
romantic spot with terrific views. (natural history) and the Civico Ristorante expensive
Carry on through the colon naded Museo Sartorio (art and culture) This restaurant is modernist in food and
atmosphere, serving innovative dishes.
Foro Romano 9 and on to the (all closed Mon). Return to the car Via Rittmeyer 14/a, 34134; 040 760 0716;
14th–16th-century Castello di San park via Via F Venezian. www.pepeneropepebianco.it; closed Sun
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Archaeological sites Vineyards to the coast
The incredibly varied landscape gives See the beautiful piazza and From Gorizia q, visit Russiz and
a choice of three enjoyable day trip. frescoes of Udine 6, then drive Collio 0 winding through vineyards
Alpine village tour to Aquileia w to see its fantastic and stopping for a tasting on the
From Tarvisio 2, walk a loop of Roman remains and enjoy lunch. way to Cormòns 9. Then its off to
the Laghi di Fusine 1, then on to Finish the day at the architectural Trieste r and the coast for an
Valbruna 3, stopping to take the jewel of Trieste r. afternoon walk around the city and
cable car from Camporosso to Monte perhaps an evening’s entertainment.
Lussari, and finish in Malborghetto 4. Take SS352 from Udine to Aquiléia. Roads in the wine area are narrow and
Take SS54 east to reach the lakes, then Continue on SS352, left on to SS14 all winding: use the SS55, then the A4
SS13 west to the other alpine villages. the way along the coast to Trieste. (E70) to Trieste to save a little time.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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