Page 136 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

134 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Ferrara
Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44121–44124
The d’Este dynasty ruled over Ferrara from the 13th to the 16th
century, enriching it with a splendid castle, medieval architecture and
fine Renaissance palaces. This stroll leads through the oldest part of
the city to the sombre, moated castle at its centre, Castello Estense.

A two-hour walking tour the most significant 15th-century
From the car park on Via Darsena, enter fresco cycles in Italy showing court
the city to the right of the 17th-century life, zodiac signs and Roman gods.
Porta Paola. Cross Piazza Travaglio Return past the oratory, turn right
diagonally right to the busy shopping at Via Pergolato, then left at Via
street Via San Romano. Cross Via Savanarola past Casa Romei 5 (closed
Ripagrande/Carlo Mayr and turn Mon), a fine example of a Ferrerese
Above A narrow alley through the historic right on Via Volte 1, one of the oldest nobleman’s house combining
centre of Ferrara parts of the city. The archways once medieval and Renaissance elements.
joined the river warehouses on the Turn left at Via Terranuova, then right
right to the merchants’ houses on into Via Mazzini past the Synagogue
the left. At the end, turn left, then and Jewish Museum 6 (open Sun–
VISITING FERRARA right into Vicolo Granchio. Go Thu, guided visits only: 10am,
Getting to Ferrara straight on, in a series of dog- 11am, 12 am). On the left of
From the A13 toll road, take exit Ferrara legs, into Via Carmellino and Via Mazzini is the Ghetto. In
Nord onto Via Eridano/SP19. The nearest Via Borgo di Sotto. 1492, Ercole I gave shelter
airports are Bologna and Venice.
This leads to the Oratorio to Jews fleeing persecution
Parking dell’Annunziata 2, with in Spain. When d’Este
Centro Storico, Via Darsena
superb frescoes, including a power waned, the
Bicycle hire 15th-century fresco by the Detail from the façade community was gated in
Rent-a-bike Ceragioli (Piazza school of Pisanello. Continue of Ferrara’s Duomo 1627 and closed in 1859.
Travaglio, 44121; 339 405 6853)
into Via Scandiana – on the Now a charming area, it was
Tourist Information right is the Chiesa di Santa Maria in the setting for Giorgio Bassani’s 1962
Castello Estense, 44121; 0532 299 303;
www.ferraraterraeacqua.it Vado 3. In 1171 a priest celebrating novel, The Garden of the Finzi-Continis.
mass broke the host, which sprayed Via Mazzini opens into a series of
blood over the vault above the altar, squares in the city’s heart. On the right
confirming the miracle of the Eucharist. of Piazza Trento Trieste is a Renaissance
WHERE TO STAY On the left is Palazzo Schifanioa 4 bell tower, attributed to Leon Battista
FERRARA AND AROUND (closed Mon), which belonged to the Alberti (1404–72), and the medieval
Hotel Touring inexpensive d’Este family and is now home to a Loggia of the Merchants. Facing west
Set in the town centre and offering museum containing artifacts from is the Duomo, the magnificent 12th-
excellent value for money, this 1950s the d’Este court as well as some of century Basilica di San Giorgio 7
hotel has quiet rooms, excellent staff
and parking permits for a small fee. Below Statue of Niccolò III d’Este 1383–1441), the Marquess of Ferrara, outside the Palazzo Municipale
Viale Cavour 11, 44100; 0532 206
200; www.hoteltouringfe.it Below right The glassy waters of a peaceful wooded pond near Il Mulino del Po
Alla Cedrara a Ferrara inexpensive
This agriturismo (farm stay) in parkland
7 km (4 miles) from the historic centre,
serves generous breakfasts (on the
terrace in fine weather). Exit Ferrara on
Via Modena, left after bridge, then right
into Via Arginone, first left Via Pelosa. At
Via Aranova turn left for the agriturismo.
Aranova, 102–104 Lat. Via Pelosa, 44044;
345 013 54 24, 340 934 30 96; www.
allacedrara.it; offers bicycle hire
Hotel Ferrara moderate
This central hotel combines a sleek
modern style with a characterful old
building – some rooms have views
onto neighbouring Castello Estense.
Largo Castello 36, 44121; 053 220
5048; www.hotelferrara.com;
free bicycle hire
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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