Page 137 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 13: The Po Delta 135

0 metres 300 EAT AND DRINK
PIAZZA
SACRATI Castello Estense VIA PALESTRO 0 yards 300 FERRARA
VIA DELLA SA CCA V I A D E G L I SPA D A R I Municipale CASTELLO PIAZZA CATTEDRALE CORSO MARTIRI Basilica V I A F R ESCO B AL DI V I A B E L L A R I A Leon d’Oro inexpensive
PIAZZA
V I A M O N T E B E L L O
Almost a Ferrara institution, this central
café and pasticceria opposite the Duomo
VIA GARIBALDI
V I A R E S I S T E N Z A
Palazzo
is famous for its pampapato, a nutty,
di San Giorgio
nougat-style sweet dipped in chocolate.
COR S O P OR TA R E NO VIA SAN RO MANO PIAZZA Jewish Museum VIA COAMAR I V I A M O R T A R A Piazza della Cattedrale 8, 44121;
0532 20 9318; closed Tue
TRENTO TRIESTE
Synagogue and
VIA VOLTAPALETTO
Caffetteria Ristorante
VIA TERRANU OVA
VIA CAPO DELLE VOLTE
DELLA LIBERTÀ C O R S O G I O V E C C A C O R S O G I O V E C C A
Schifanoia inexpensive
VIA
This small pavilion has been
MAZZINI
Casa Romei
VI A P I A N G I PA N E
PIAZZA V IA S C I E N Z E V I A P A G L I A VIA SAVANAROLA V I A B A S S I turned into a delightful garden
TRAVAGLIO V I A V O L T E VIA PRAISOLO café by artist Simone Bavia.
V I A R I P A G R A N D E
Palazzo Schifanoia, Via Scandiana 21,
VIA KENNEDY VIA BOLOGNA GRANCHIO CARMELLINO VIA BORGO VIA PE RGOLATO Oratorio dell’ Palazzo 44100; 340 617 8870; lunch only;
VIA
VICOLO
Annunziata
closed Mon
Schifanioa
VIA SALINGUERRA DI SOTTO Chiesa di VI A S C A NDIA N A Cà d’ Frara moderate
As you would expect in a restaurant in
V I A C A R L O M AY R
Santa Maria in Vado
V I A D E I B A L U A R D I
Via del Gambero (Prawn Street), this
pleasant restaurant serves seafood, but
also home-made pasta specialities such
(open daily). The lower part of the Cycling in the Po Delta as cappellacci di zucca (pumpkin pasta).
façade is Romanesque while the Geographically the whole area of the Via del Gambero 4, 44121; 0532 205
057; www. ristorantecadfrara.it; closed
intricately carved upper part was Po Delta is very flat, making it ideal for Tue & Wed lunch
built later in Gothic style. exploring on a bike. Ravenna has free L’Oca Giuliva moderate
Directly opposite is the Palazzo bicycles for hire – yellow/red for A small restaurant with an excellent
Municpale 8, a 12th-century d’Este tourists/residents. Register at the wine cellar: try their splendid salama
tourist office (Via Salara 8, Ravenna
residence remodelled in the 16th 48100; www.turismo.ra.it). Many hotels da sugo, a spicy sausage in ragù sauce.
century to house the City Hall. To the supply bikes free to guests. Via Boccacanale di Santo Stefano 38,
40100; 0532 207 628; closed Tue;
right, above an arch designed by Leon Route maps and information are booking advised
Battista Alberti, is a statue of Niccolò available at www.ferrarabike.com and
III d’Este on horseback; to the left, www.cycle-r.it, including the Destra Osteria Del Ghetto moderate
In the heart of the Jewish ghetto, this
seated on a column, is his son Borso. Po Route, part of the Eurovelo cycle small osteria has a typically local menu:
routes from Athens to Cadiz. Most
Turning right up Corso Martiri della locals are keen cyclists, and hotels try the cosciotto di maialino in porchetta
Libertà, the last column on the left has and guides can offer biking tours – ham-wrapped roast pork with fennel.
marks from when the River Po burst not easily found elsewhere. Via della Vittoria, 26, 44121; 0532 764
its banks, flooding the city. Nearby is 936; www.osteriadelghetto.it
the statue of the Ferrarese Dominican IL MULINO DEL PO
monk Girolamo Savonarola, a leader 2 Il Mulino del Po VenTo di Supa moderate
of Florence whose passionate sermons Ro, Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44030 Simple outdoor restaurant-bar on the
started the Bonfire of the Vanities in This small parkland with picnic areas shores of the Po river. Offers excellent
meat and fish dishes. Try the roasted
1497, when all “sinful goods” were and bicycle hire, on the banks of the eel, a local specialty..
taken from the city’s houses and burnt. river near the Polesella bridge, featured Via Dazio, 52 44030; 345 610 80 08;
Surrounded by a moat is the symbol in a 1940 novel by Riccardo Bacchelli, www.ventodisupa.com; closed Mon
of Ferrara, the Castello Estense 9 Il Mulino del Po (The Mill on the Po),
(closed Mon), built in the 15th century evoking the harsh realities of life on
to protect Niccolò II d’Este against his the river. There is a small museum in
own people. As d’Este rule became the barge/houseboat that was used
established, the castle grew into a fine in a 1949 film of the book. The tethered
home with terraces and frescoed barge was manoeuvred into mid-
apartments. Return to the car park. stream, where the force of the water
ª Leave Ferrara on Via Pomposa, turned the waterwheel it carried,
towards Copparo – turn left into grinding the corn. The tall mooring
Via Pontegradella, then left into Via poles are an indication of how high
Caretti, and right into SP2. Just before the river flows when in flood.
Corlo, take 1st left onto SP14 (towards ª Returning to Ro, take 1st left onto
Ro). At Ro follow signs to “Centro Via Vallalbana/SP24, following signs
Storico”, left at Via Dazio, follow signs to Berra. At Canova, turn left into Via
for Area Golenale del Po - Mulino sul Brusantina Pampano/SP12 to Ariano.
Po. Park in the designated area. Walk At Piazza Garibaldi turn left to SP11 to Above The Castello Estense, or castello di San
over the embankment to the park. Mesola. Use car park on Viale Roma. Michele, in Ferrara
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
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