Page 141 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 13: The Po Delta 139

0 Ravenna collection of fabrics, ivories, coins
Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna; 48100 and icons. To the left, in Via San
From AD 402 until 476, Ravenna was Vitale/Via Salara, the information
the capital of the Western Roman office offers free bicycles for exploring
Empire and remained the capital of the city. Nearby Via Cavour is a fine
Byzantine Italy until the 8th century. shopping street, which leads to
The city’s importance in the early Piazza Andrea Costa and the covered
Christian era endowed it with market (morning only) selling flowers,
astonishing monuments and lavishly fish, meat and cheese and all manner
decorated churches – eight buildings of fresh local produce. Via IV
have been listed by UNESCO. But Novembre leads straight to elegant Above Free yellow bicycles available for
Ravenna is a living city and not just Piazza del Popolo with its two tourists in Ravenna
an architectural museum – its piazzas Venetian-style columns with saints
and historic monuments are linked Apollinare and Vitale perched on top.
by pleasant streets bustling with Behind is Palazzo Communale and to EAT AND DRINK
local life. The octagonal Basilica di the left, Palazzo Veneziano, built when ARGENTA AND AROUND
San Vitale (open daily), built 527–48, Ravenna was part of the Venetian
is the only major church from the Republic in the 15th century. The Oasi inexpensive
This is the closest bar/trattoria to the
period of Emperor Justinian I to survive archway in Palazzo Veneziano leads Museo di Valli and it is possible to pick
virtually intact. Its colourful mosaics to Via Cairoli, a narrow shopping street up a picnic lunch to enjoy in the park.
are the height of Byzantine splendour with Liberty-style shop façades. Via Vallesanta 6, 44011; 0532 808 017;
– look for the emperor portrayed The Basilica di Sant’Apollinare open Tue–Sun lunch, Fri–Sun eve
with court officials, and on the Nuovo (combined ticket), in Via di Roma, Ristorante Patuelli moderate
opposite wall, the Empress Theodora. has a cylindrical bell tower and some Situated opposite the parkland south of
Within the complex is the small of the largest Byzantine mosaics the museum, this place serves superb
chargrilled eel and other local delicacies.
building of the Mausoleum of Galla (6th century). Directly opposite, Via Via Cardinala 11/a, Campotto 44011;
Placidia (included in group ticket), Negri leads into Largo Firenze and 0532 808 314; closed Mon & Tue
regarded as the best preserved of the the side door to the Basilica di San RAVENNA
mosaic monuments, and the Museo Francesco, its 10th-century crypt full
Nazionale di Ravenna (separate ticket), of water with fish swimming over the Gustavo Bizantino inexpensive
Eat with the locals at this busy self-
in the cloisters, with 14th-century 5th-century mosaic floor. Leave by the service buffet within the covered market.
frescoes of Santa Chiara and a front door into Piazza San Francesco. Great fresh food and you can pile your
Through the garden to the right is plate high with delicious bread, grilled
Below The exterior of the Byzantine Basilica the Neo-Classical Tomb of Dante vegetables and fresh salads.
di San Vitale, Ravenna (open daily; free entry) – the Italian poet Mercato Coperto, Piazza Andrea Costa,
48100; 0544 32073; lunch only
died here in 1321. In Piazza Duomo
stands the last of the combined ticket Osteria dei Battibecchi moderate
sites: the late 4th- or early 5th-century This small place has a small but tasty
menu – home-made lasagne, pork hot
Neonian Baptistry. The octagonal pot with cardoons, and caramelized figs.
building contains delightful Greco- Via Della Tesoreria Vecchia 16, 48100;
Roman influenced frescoes. From here, 0544 219 536; closed Mon
Via Cavour runs towards the imposing Enoteca Ca’ de Ven moderate
16th-century Porta Adriana. Left at Via This bar/restaurant, in a historic
Barbiani is the Domus dei Tappeti di palazzo near Dante’s Tomb, is a
Ravenna institution – try the piadina
Pietra (open daily, entry through San and crescioni (filled Italian flatbreads).
Eufemia), the site of a Roman villa and Via Corrado Ricci 24, 48100; 0544 30163;
beautiful Byzantine mosaics. www.cadeven.it; closed Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS buildings and lunch in the countryside. pickling factory, then head off to
Adults will enjoy Ferrara and Ravenna’s Next explore the great churches and Porto Garibaldi 6 for lunch on the
historic buildings, while the watery Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna 0. beach. Drive north to the woods of
wildlife-filled Po Delta and the beach The SS16 joins all these stops. Bosco della Mesola to glimpse the
will keep young families busy. shy deer, or just stay on the beach.
The natural world
Art and architecture From Ravenna 0, pack a picnic and Head north from Ravenna on SP1,
At Ferrara 1, spend half a day seeing set off early to Valli di Comacchio 8, turning left at Cruser following signs to
the city’s frescoes and Renaissance to spend a couple of hours watching Comacchio. Retrace drive instructions
architecture, then head off to Argenta the water birds on the lagoon. Carry to Porto Garibaldi, then head up along
9 to visit one of the delta’s oldest on to Comacchio 7 to visit the eel the coast to Bosco Mesola.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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