Page 139 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 13: The Po Delta 137

from Ravenna. The complex is an
architectural delight – the 48-m
(157-ft) bell tower, or campanile,
is typical Lombard Romanesque.
The interior is covered with frescoes
of biblical scenes by Bolognese
masters and the floor was created
in the 11th and 12th centuries by
Venetian craftsmen.
In the 11th century, the monk
Guido d’Arezzo is said to have
invented modern musical notation
while teaching music here.
ª Head south on Loc. Lovara/SS309,
turn left at SP54 to Lido di Volano, then
right at Strada Panoramica Acciaioli.
At Porto Garibaldi, fork left on Via Above left Comacchio, a town of canals,
Cacciatori, then left into Via Florido 7 Comacchio boats and bridges Above right The elegant
Braga, right at Via Volturno to the port. Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44022 14th-century bell tower at the Abbazia di
This picturesque town has derived Pomposa Below One of the well-tended
6 Porto Garibaldi its prosperity from many centuries of sandy beaches at Porto Garibaldi
Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44029 fishing, salt harvesting and catching
Named in honour of the Risorgimento eels from the nearby lagoon. Founded
hero Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807–82), by the Etruscans and annexed by the
who landed here during his flight Romans, who built a canal to deepen
from the Austrians in 1849, this busy the lagoon, Comacchio went on to
fishing port has several sandy beaches, prosper under the Goths, Lombards,
perfect for a dip in the Adriatic. The Venetians and finally the Papal States.
Lido delle Nazioni, Lido di Pomposa, The historic centre is divided by
Lido degli Scacchi and the Lido degli canals with ten brick bridges. The
Estensi are all accessible from here by Treponti Bridge, built in 1634, has five EAT AND DRINK
ferry for foot or bicycle passengers. staircases, five semi-circular arches CASTELLO DI MESOLA
The town also has one of the largest and crosses five different canals. It’s Ristorante Al Castello moderate
fishing fleets in the Adriatic, with boats also possible to visit the eel pickling Set within the walled courtyard of
leaving the Magnavacca Canal early in factory, La Manifattura dei Marinati the castle, this trattoria puts on
the morning and returning later to (Corso Mazzini 200; open daily). a good show for locals and visitors
unload their catch. It’s easy to charter a ª Continue along Corso Mazzini, alike. Try steamed asparagus with
boat for a fishing trip from the harbour. past La Manifattura dei Marinati, turn cheese and truffles, pasta with venison
ragù, and chicken pieces covered with
ª Head west on Via Giacomo left, then right into Via Spina/SP1, left sesame seeds and fried.
Matteotti, which becomes Strada at Strada Poderale Belfiore, crossing Piazza Umberto I 9, 44026; 0533 993
Provinciale di Comacchio/SP1. At the canal, straight onto Via Arsa and 088; closed Mon & Tue
Comacchio, turn left at Via Trepponti/ Via Anita in Loc. Fosse passing Via IL BOSCO DELLA MESOLA
SP1 and follow the road around the Agosta along the edge of the lagoon, Il Bischero moderate
town. Turn right at roundabout to Corso then turn left on Via Martinella Rotta This restaurant has a warm and
Giuseppe Mazzini and ample parking. and park in a layby for the view. intimate atmosphere and serves robust
Tuscan cuisine such as choice salamis,
tagliatelle with wild boar sauce and
chargrilled steak Florentine.
Via Sacche, 344026; 3474 209 506;
www.ristorantelafalce.it; closed Mon &
Tue; also has gluten-free menu
ABBAZIA DI POMPOSA
Corte Madonnina moderate
This Azienda Agricola (farm business),
just south of the abbey, sells its own
wines direct to the public. The
adjoining farmhouse serves typical
cuisine: salama da sugo (medieval
sausage), pumpkin ravioli and eels.
SS Romea (Località per Volano 1),
Pomposa, 44020; 0533 719 002;
www.cortemadonnina.it; closed Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

134-139_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 137 21/09/17 11:17 am