Page 147 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 14: The Azure Coast to the Po Valley 145

Ferro leads to Via Garibaldi and its
great palazzos. Step inside Palazzo
Doria-Tursi r for the beautiful court-
yard and double marble staircase and
view the stucco work. The Palazzo
Bianco t has wonderful paintings by
Filippino Lippi, Veronese and
Caravaggio, as well as Dutch and
Flemish masters Rubens, Van Dyck and
Memling. The Palazzo Rosso y has
paintings, furniture and 17th-century
frescoes. Continue to Piazza Fontane
Marose and Via XXV Aprile, passing the
19th-century Teatro Carlo Felice u,
home of Genoa’s opera house.
If there’s still time, take the Liberty-
style lift from Piazza Portello, off Via
Garibaldi, up to Belvedere Montaldo
i for sweeping views. If staying
longer in Genoa, take time to explore Above top The port of Genoa, facing the
the port area. the village depended on its nearby Ligurian Sea Above left Mural of St George
ª Follow signs to motorway A12 east mines, which only closed in 1943. slaying the dragon on the town hall, Genoa
to the Chiavari exit, signed Parma then ª Take SP15 to Calestano, then Above right The spectacular Castello
SP225 to Carasco. Take SP586, then turn follow signs for Langhirano. Torrechiara, near Langhirano Below left The
right on SP26bis. Continue up the Passo picturesque village of Calestano
del Bocco and take the SP3 through 3 Langhirano
Bedonia. Follow signs for A15 on Parma; 43100 SHOPPING IN TORRECHIARA
SP523. After railway bridge, turn right It is a lovely drive through Calestano, Buy prosciutto, salami and Parmigiano
for Berceto. Park in Piazza San Giovanni. where the countryside opens out into at Salumeria da Gardoni (Piazza Leoni
5, 43010; 0521 355119; www.www.
For Corchia, follow signs to Corchia. green terraced meadows, vines and facebook.com/gardonitorrechiara).
orchards. The next town, Langhirano,
2 Berceto is dedicated to the curing of air-dried EAT AND DRINK
Parma; 43042 ham; its many factories open their
The road to Berceto climbs through windows to what is said to be a GENOA
the Apennines and chestnut, beech perfect combination of sea and Il Cadraio moderate
and oak forests to the Valle del Taro, mountain air. The Museo del Prosciutto Traditional genoese specialties served
which is porcini mushroom country. (open weekends) in the Foro Boario, a in a cozy, rustic trattoria. Great wine list.
Quiet Berceto, with its stone houses former cattle market, tells the history Vico dietro il coro della Maddalena, 26r,
Genoa 16124; 010 247 4095; www.
and cobbled streets, has changed little and process from pig to plate. facebook.com/ilcadraio/
since it was an important stop on the ª Take SP665 to the signposted Da Rina expensive
Via Francigena. Its main attraction is Castello di Torrechiara and car park. This restaurant in an old warehouse
the Romanesque Duomo di San overlooking the Porto Antico serves
Moderanno, which has a 12th-century 4 Castello di Torrechiara fish dishes and excellent antipasti.
lunette of the Crucifixion. Parma; 43010 Mura delle Grazie 3r, 16128; 010 246
6475; www.ristorantedarina.it
Time has also passed by the village This impressive castle (closed Mon) was
of Corchia, tucked away in chestnut built in the 15th century for defence, Other options
groves a little west of Berceto. Dating as can be seen by the three rings of For great focaccia, try Forno Patrone
(Via Ravecca 72r, 16128; 010 251 1093;
back to the 13th century, everything walls and four square towers, and also closed Wed pm) near the Porta Soprana.
here is made of stone. For 400 years as a family residence. There are a series
of vivid 16th-century frescoes: the AROUND BERCETO
Salone degli Acrobati (Acrobats’ Room) Trattoria Corchia inexpensive
The small trattoria in tiny Corchia
shows gymnasts in a human pyramid specializes in local game and mushroom
on the backs of lions and the Camera dishes and is also known for its pizzas.
d’Oro (Golden Room) tells the love Corchia 43042; 0525 61814; closed Mon
story between Count Pier Maria Rossi, La Pergola moderate–expensive
for whom the castle was built, and his This traditional restaurant puts
lover, Bianca Pelligrini. mushrooms to the fore – expect porcini
risotto and wild mushroom soufflé.
ª Take SP665 to Parma. Use a free car Via Garibaldi 19, Bedonia 43041; 0525
park off the tangenziale (ring road). Buy 826 612; www.ristorante-lapergola.it;
a ticket from machine for bus to centre. closed Thu
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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