Page 148 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

146 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Above left Boats in La Spezia’s harbour
Above right Piazza Prampolini, Reggio Emilia 5 Parma The Museo Glauco Lombardi in Via
Below Statue of the 16th-century artist Parma; 43100 Garibaldi is testament to Maria Luigia,
Parmigianino in Piazza Santa Maria della Seductive Parma is a treasure house who became Duchess of Parma in
Steccata, Parma of art and architecture, and a store of 1815 after Napoleon’s abdication, and
gastronomic delights. The 11th-century was a famous fan of Parma violets.
Duomo reflects both aspects. It is Her dresses, jewellery, family portraits
ACTIVITIES IN PARMA home to works by two sons of Parma and watercolours are all on show.
Explore the car-free centre of town by – Parmagianino (1503–40) and ª From the tangenziale take SS9 to
hiring a bike from one of the Punto Correggio (1489–1534), who painted Reggio Emilia. Park in the centre at
Bici (www.infomobility.pr.it) pick-up the Assumption (1534) in the central Caserma Zucchi on Viale Isonzo.
and drop-off points in the city. For tours cupola, and at the main entrance is
of prosciutto and Parmigiano factories 6 Reggio Emilia
with tastings, try Food Valley Gourmet the earliest known bas-relief of the
Tours (Viale Frati 38D; 0521 798 515; slaughter of a pig. Next door, the Emilia Romagna; 42100
www.foodvalleytravel.com). 13th-century octagonal baptistery, As affluent as its neighbour Parma,
by architect and sculptor Benedetto if less glamourous, Reggio Emilia is a
Antelami (c.1150–1230), is a confection pleasant town to visit, with two large,
WHERE TO STAY
of pink and white Verona marble. lively central squares. Piazza
PARMA Don’t miss the decorative interior. Prampolini holds the Duomo, topped
Hotel Torino moderate–expensive Stroll over the green lawn to the by a brick octagonal lantern tower, its
This comfortable hotel, furnished in vast Palazzo della Pilotta, built by the Romanesque upper half in contrast
modern style, is right in the historic Farnese family and housing several to the 16th-century marble lower
centre and has garage parking. museums. A visit to the Galleria half, where Adam and Eve appear
Borgo Angelo Mazza 7, 43121; 0521 Nazionale (Tue–Sun) allows a closer in the lunette over the doorway. In
281 046; www.hotel-torino.it
look at works by Parmagianino, the same square, in 1797 the Palazzo
REGGIO EMILIA Correggio and others. Here, too, is del Capitano del Popolo flew the red,
Albergo delle Notarie moderate the Museo Archeologico Nazionale green and white tricolor that was
In the heart of the city, this hotel (open daily) and the wooden Teatro later – in 1848 – to become Italy’s
has views of the cathedral, a good
restaurant and parking. Farnese, inaugurated in 1628, when national flag. It’s a brief walk along
Via Palazzolo 5, 42121; 0522 453 500; the auditorium was flooded to the colonnaded street to Piazza San
www.albergonotarie.it present a naumachia (naval battle). Prospero and the Baroque Basilica
The three-tier auditorium has a San Prospero, its façade busy with
LA SPEZIA
Hotel Firenze e Continentale revolving stage, the first in Italy. statues of saints, and guarded by
moderate six pink Verona marble lions. The
This large hotel with an attractive profuse displays of sculpture, natural
marble and wood interior offers stylish history and archaeology in the
and comfortable accommodation. antique glass cases of the Musei
Via Paleocapa 7, 19122; 0187 713 200;
www.hotelfirenzecontinentale.it Civici are a work of art in themselves.
Don’t miss the fine black and white
PORTOVENERE medieval mosaics in the entrance hall.
Belvedere moderate ª Take SS63 south towards La Spezia.
This family-run hotel offers a terrace At Aulla, join SS62 and follow signs for
overlooking the sea, rooms with
balconies and on-site parking. A15 to La Spezia and the road by the
Via Garibaldi 26, 19025; 0187 790 608; port. Turn right on Viale Amendola
www.belvedereportovenere.it and park in Piazza d’Armi (2nd left).

144-147_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 146 06/10/17 2:59 pm
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