Page 149 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 14: The Azure Coast to the Po Valley 147

BOAT TRIPS AND FERRIES
8 Portovenere For information on passenger boats
La Spezia, Liguria; 19025 between La Spezia and Portovenere,
Dependent on fish in Roman times, Isola Palmária and the Cinque Terre, visit
when it was known as Portus Veneris Consorzio Marittimo Turistico
(Port of Venus), Portovenere is still a (5 Terre, Via Don Minzoni 13, La
typical Ligurian fishing town, with Spezia 19121; 0187 732 987;
www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it).
tall ochre and pink tower houses
rising up from the small harbour.
A walk along the harbour front and
up the marble steps leads to the WHERE TO EAT
striped Genoese-Gothic Chiesa di
San Pietro, stunningly sited on the PARMA
tip of the rocky promontory that Enoteca Fontana inexpensive
borders the western side of the This restaurant, popular with locals,
Golfo dei Poeti. Alongside is the serves wine by the glass from an
Arpaia Grotto, or Byron’s Grotto, extensive wine list (the Lambrusco is
7 La Spezia where a plaque on the wall good). Snacks feature local specialities.
Strada Farini 24a, 43121; 0521 286
La Spezia, Liguria; 19100 commemorates the poet’s swim to 037; closed Mon & Tue
With its mild climate and stunning Lerici. Windows in the wall provide Gallo D’Oro moderate
position at the head of the Golfo perfectly framed views of the Cinque Rabbit and horsemeat feature on the
della Spezia, backed by mountains, Terre. Turning back towards the town, menu here apart from classic Parma
it’s easy to see why Byron, Shelley, steep alleyways lead up to the dishes, a variety of salads and stuffed
George Sands and DH Lawrence all chunky 16th-century Castello Doria, pastas. It is located in the historic centre.
loved the area. Nowadays, it is a with more stunning views, and then Borgo della Salina 3, 43121; 0521 208
846; closed Sun
thriving port and Italy’s chief naval back down to the main Via Capellini,
base, and it’s still a treat to take a a run of little bars, restaurants and LA SPEZIA
boat out into the bay. Standing back boutiques. If time allows, take a boat Il Ristorantino di Bayon expensive
from the palm-fringed Giardini from the port to explore one of the Stylish and intimate restaurant with
the accent on fish. Enjoy Palmária
Pubblici along the sea front is Piazza lovely islands nearby – Palmária, mussels and trofie (tightly twisted
Chiodi, site of the naval Arsenale Tino or Tinetto. pasta) with shrimps and almonds.
from the 1860s. Next to it is the Via Felice Cavallotti 23, 19121;
grand Museo Tecnico Navale (open 0187 732 209; closed lunch & Sun;
daily) with model ships, figureheads booking advised
and submarines. Wide boulevards AROUND PORTOVENERE
lead to the centre and the modern Locanda Lorena expensive
market in Piazza Cavour with its It takes a boat trip to reach this
wavy roof. Close by, the Museo excellent seafood restaurant on the
Amedeo Lia (closed Mon) has first- Isola Palmária, but it’s well worth it.
They also have rooms.
class enamels and ivories, Roman Via Cavour 4, Isola Palmária 19025;
bronzes and works by Tintoretto, 0187 792 370; closed Wed & Nov–Feb;
Cranach and Canaletto. Next door, www.locandalorena.com
the Museo del Sigillo has the world’s
largest collection of seals, including
Chinese jade and Art Nouveau
objects by René Lalique. Above Portovenere’s harbour, with its pastel-
ª Take SP530 to Portovenere. Park coloured tower-houses Left Fishing boat in
on the main road before the village. the sea beneath Castello Doria, Portovenere

DAY TRIP OPTIONS Gesù and the magnificent Cattedrale maritime history, then hop on a boat
Genoa easily deserves a day to itself di San Lorenzo before discovering to lovely Portovenere 8 and soak
for exploration and from there you the artistic treasures of the palazzos. up the wonderful views of the
can head down the coast to La Spezia Stop for a coffee at Pasticceria Cinque Terre from the Chiesa di
and a boat trip to Portovenere. Klainguti and be sure to end the San Pietro.
day with a seafood supper.
Medieval Genoa For La Spezia from Genoa, choose
Simply spend the whole day in Big port and little harbour between SP1 which gives good views
Genoa 1, investigating the maze of From Genoa 1, enjoy the coastal of the coast until Sestri Levante, or the
alleyways that make up the medieval road to La Spezia 7, stroll the port’s quicker A12/E60 motorway, which
centre, the Baroque jewel of San pleasant boulevards, take in some gives a journey time of 1½ hours.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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