Page 146 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)
P. 146

144 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

                               1 Genoa (Genova)
                               Genoa; 16100
                               Surrounded by hills and looking out to sea, proud Genoa was
                               trans formed in the 16th and 17th centuries, when its wealthy mer­
                               chants commissioned grand palazzos in what was then named “Strada
                               Nuova” (New Street) – now called Via Garibaldi, it is a UNESCO World
                               Heritage Site and three of the palazzos are world­class museums.
                               For stunning views of the historic centre, take the lift to Castelletto.

                               A three-hour walking tour  Stradone di Sant’Agostino leads to the
                               Start from the De Ferrari metro station  Romanesque Chiesa di San Donato 6
                               and follow Via Dante to the two towers  with an octagonal campanile, a rose
                               of the Porta Soprana 1, a gate in the   window and, inside, striped columns
                               12th­century walls that separate the   and a painted ceiling. Follow Via San
       Above The huge arch of medieval Porta   historic from the modern city. The Vico   Donato round the church to Piazza
       Soprana, the main entrance to Genoa  Dritto di Ponticello leads past the   delle Erbe, with a full range of bars,
                               Chiostro di Sant’ Andrea 2, a ruined   including lively Bar Berto 7 (1904),
                               12th­century cloister that was once   decorated with tiles from Albisola.
                               part of a Benedictine monastery. Casa   Walk back past the church to Via
        VISITING GENOA         di Christoforo Colombo 3, the sup­  San Bernardo and look for the Antica
       Parking                 posed boyhood home of Christopher   Drogheria Torielli 8, filled with all
       The main car park is under Piazza della   Columbus, is next door. Return to Porta  kinds of herbs and spices.
       Vittoria, where bus tickets for the city can   Soprana and turn left into Via Ravecca,   Via San Bernardo leads to arcaded
       be bought. The centre is closed to traffic.
                               past the bell tower and cloisters of the   Via Turati. Turn right and keep going
       Tourist Information     13th­century Chiesa di Sant’ Agostino,   until the sign for Vico dei Caprettari is
       Via Garibaldi 12r; 010 557 2903; open
       daily; www.visitgenoa.it  now the Museo di Sant’ Agostino 4,   on the right. Look in (or get a haircut)
                               with works by Giovanni Pisano (1250–  at the Barbiere 9, to admire the Art
                               1315) and Antonio Canova (1757–  Deco ornamentation. The alleyways
                               1822). The museum fronts Piazza di   here have an enticing mix of shops.
                               Sarzano 5, so long, that it was once   Turn left into Via di Cannetto then
                               used for jousting and rope­making.   right into Via San Lorenzo with its
                                                               striped 12th­century
        WHERE TO STAY                                          Cattedrale di San
                                           Belvedere           Lorenzo 0, flanked by
                                           Montaldo
       GENOA                                                   two lions. Look inside for
       Cristoforo Colombo moderate   Palazzo Bianco  Public Lift  the Renaissance
       Colourful and elegant rooms in the   Palazzo Doria-Tursi  PORTELLO  Cappella di San Giovanni
                                                    PIAZZA
       historic part of the city. In summer,   Palazzo Rosso  V I A           G .       G A R I B A L D I  Battista, once home to St
       breakfast is served on the roof terrace.
       Via Porta Soprana 27, 16123; 010 251   VIA   DELLA    MADDALENA  V. FERRO  PIAZZA  John the Baptist’s ashes.
       3643; www.hotelcolombo.it                      FONTANE  Carry on to Piazza
                                                      MAROSE
                                               DI SOZIGLIA
       Cairoli moderate          Klainguti and Romanengo  VIA DEI MACELLI  VIA     L UCCOLI  Matteotti and the 16th­
                                      Coffee Houses
       Contemporary art inspires the bright                    century Palazzo Ducale
       and fresh rooms in this palazzo hotel,   V. SOZIGLIA  V I A         X X V         A P R I L E  q. Look inside for
                                     V I A         S .               L U C A
       with an outdoor terrace and small                       exhibitions. For some
       gym. Garage parking is available.      MATTEO           Baroque pomp,
                                             V. SAN
       Via Cairoli 14/4, 16124; 010 246 1454;   Cattedrale di SALITA  ARCIVESCOVADO  Teatro
       www.hotelcairoligenova.com  Barbiere V. DI CANNETO IL CURTO  San Lorenzo  Carlo Felice  continue to the right of
       Locanda di Palazzo Cicala expensive  VIA TURATI                V I A       S A N   L O R E N Z O  Palazzo  Piazza Matteotti and the
                                                  Ducale
                                                   PIAZZA
       Chic hotel with large rooms and stucco   VIA  DI  CANNETO IL  LUNGO  DE FERRARI  De  Chiesa del Gesù w, full
                                              PIAZZA
       ceilings in an 18th­century palazzo   MATTEOTTI   Ferrari  of coloured marble, gilt
       near the cathedral. Paid parking nearby.   VIA SAN BERNARDO Antica Chiesa del Gesù  stucco and frescoes. Take
       Piazza San Lorenzo 16, 16123; 010 251   Drogheria Torielli  PIAZZA  Bar Berto VIA DANTE  Salita Arcivescovado,
                                             DELLE
                                              ERBE
       8824; www.palazzocicala.it      Chiesa di  VIA  D S. DON ATO Chiostro di  Casa di  turn left onto Vico San
                                                         Cristoforo
       AROUND BERCETO                 San Donato  Sant’  Andrea  Colombo  Matteo, then right to Via
                                          PIAZZA
                                          S. DONATO
                                             Museo di
       Villa Tre Angeli inexpensive  0 metres  200  Sant’ Agostino  Porta  Soziglia for a drink and a
       The owners of this pretty pink Liberty­  STRADONE  SANT’ AGOSTINO  cake in coffee houses
       style villa are very helpful and can   0 yards  200  V I A                 D I                 R AV E C C A Soprana  Klainguti or Romanengo
                                                  VIA  DEL  C OLLE
       arrange mushroom­picking expeditions   Piazza di  PASSO DELLE  M URETTE
       and Parmigiano and prosciutto tours.    Sarzano         e, dating from 1800s. A
       Via Roma 37, Bedonia 43041; 0525 824                    left turn at the end of Via
       841; www.villatreangeli.com                             Soziglia onto Vico del
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
   144-147_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd   144                         06/11/17   5:30 pm
  Back Roads         LAYERS PRINTED:
  Catalogue Spread template   “UK” LAYER
  (OpenType)
  Date 02 November 2009
  Size 145mm x 217mm
  Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
  Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont
   141   142   143   144   145   146   147   148   149   150   151