Page 184 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

182 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 San Miniato visited here. It’s also worth exploring
Pisa, Tuscany; 56027 the modern art museum BeGo (Via
Like a sentinel guarding the Via Testaferrata; www.museobenozzogozzoli.
Francigena, San Miniato’s 13th-century it), which has frescoes by the
Tower of Frederick (open daily) still 15th-century artist Benozzo Gozzoli.
dominates the Arno valley. The ª Head south on SS429, left towards
German Emperor Otto I built a castle Volterra, then right on the overpass
in San Miniato in AD 962, and the (SP4). Go straight over the roundabout,
town became the seat of imperial and on through Gambassi Terme. At
viceroys with jurisdiction over all of Spillocchi turn right for Montaione, then
Tuscany. The Duomo (open daily) is left at Via Pozzolo and left again at
Above Road winding through Volterra’s dedicated to the Virgin Mary and San Via Tre Ponti and into San Vivaldo.
fertile countryside Genesio. A mixture of Gothic and
Romanesque architecture, it has 3 The Holy Mount of San
VISITING SAN MINIATO majolica plates embedded in its Vivaldo
façade. The town is also famous for Montaione, Florence, Tuscany; 50050
Parking its highly prized white truffles. This extremely beautiful and rarely
There is parking in Piazza del Popolo ª From Piazza Buonaparte follow visited monastery (Apr–Oct 3–7pm
and Piazza della Repubblica. For long
stays, park in Piazza Dante Alghieri. signs to Via Fiancigena, then left daily, Sun from 10am; Nov–Mar 2–5pm
into Via Castelfiorentino. Fork right daily; www.sanvivaldointoscana.com) is
Tourist Information into Via Meleto to a large round- where the 14th-century hermit
Piazza del Popolo 56027; 0571 42745; about. Just before Castelfiorentino monk Vivaldo lived in a chestnut tree
www.sanminiatopromozione.it take first exit right then left and in the forest. Fra’ Tommaso da Firenze,
Buying and tasting truffles over the bridge. Park in Piazza on his return from the Holy Land,
The main street through San Miniato has John Fitzgerald Kennedy. replicated the holy sites in Jerusalem
several alimentari (delicatessens) that sell
white truffles. The butcher Macelleria in 25 stunning chapels (1500–16).
Falaschi Sergio (Via Augusto Conti 18) 2 Castelfiorentino The 18 that remain contain large
specializes in truffle salami. Florence, Tuscany; 50051 polychrome terracotta sculptures
Named after the castle that was built from the workshops of Giovanni
WHERE TO STAY
here on the Via Francigena (see p185), della Robbia and Benedetto Buglioni.
SAN MINIATO Castelfiorentino is laid out like a fan Concerts are staged here in summer
Miravalle inexpensive below the now crumbling fortress (Sun) – check monastery website.
An inviting hotel in the historic centre and the Chiesa di SS Ippolito and ª Head south on SP65, following signs
with a restaurant serving Tuscan cuisine. Biagio (1195). The Collegiata di Santa to Volterra. Drive most of the way
Piazzetta Del Castello 3, 56028; 0571 Verdiana in the lower town has a small through town, then turn sharp left up
419 904; www.albergomiravalle.com
museum celebrating the 12th-century Viale dei Ponti, then right for covered
AROUND CASTELFIORENTINO contemporary of St Francis who parking at Piazza Martiri della Libertà.
Le Boscarecce Country Inn inexpensive
A pleasant restored farmhouse with
rustic rooms, a garden with a pool and
a terrace (3 km/2 miles on the SP4).
Via Renai 19, 50051 (3 km/2 miles
north on SP4); 0571 61280;
www.leboscarecce.com
VOLTERRA
Hotel Villa Porta all’Arco inexpensive
This pleasant, converted 20th-century
villa is a short walk from the historic
centre, with friendly, helpful owners.
Via Mazzini 2, 56048; 0588 81487;
www.villaportallarco.it
La Locanda moderate
This small hotel, handily located in the
historic centre, has comfortable rooms.
Via Guarnacci 24/28, 56048; 058 881
547; www.hotel-lalocanda.com
Top left Porta all’Arco, an ancient entrance to
Volterra Top right Fresco at Collegiata di
Santa Verdiana, Castelfiorentino Right The
tower of Frederick rising above San Miniato

182-187_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 182 21/09/17 11:19 am
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