Page 203 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 20: Umbrian Hills, Tuscan Valleys 201

4 Città della Pieve
Perugia, Umbria; 06062
Almost completely built of brick, this
Renaissance town is most famous as
the birthplace of the painter Pietro
Vannucci, or Perugino (c.1450), who
put the home landscape into many of
his works. Enter town via the solid
Fortezza (open daily), built in 1326 and
now home to the tourist office. It is
a short walk to Piazza Plebiscito
with Perugino’s house (not open), on Above left The beautiful countryside
the left, and the Cattedrale di SS The old town and its narrow streets surrounding Cetona Above The magnificent
Gervasio e Protasio – originally an straggle up the hill to the fortress, façade of Orvieto’s Duomo
8th-century parish church, it was La Rocca, which Vitelli turned into a
enlarged in the 13th century. Heading residence. Palazzo Vitelli, his family
north on Via Pietro Vannucci leads to home, is on the main square. POTTERY CLASSES
the Confraternita Santa Maris dei ª Continue west on Via Martiri della Take a pottery course in a lovely rustic
Bianchi, housing a single painting – Libertà/SP21. On arrival in Sarteano, setting on an old farm with potter
Perugino’s glorious Adoration of the at the roundabout, take the 3rd exit Paola Biancalana (La Badia 8, Ficulle
Magi, finished in a few weeks in 1504 onto Viale Beato Alberto/SS478 and 05016; 0763 891 035; www.paola
biancalana.it) who works with a range
using his trademark strong colours. On park in Piazza Duccio Barbagli. of ceramics, including terracotta, and
the left of the Well of the Casaline, is Via likes to use a wood-fired kiln.
Baciadonne (Kiss the Women Street), 6 Sarteano
one of the narrowest streets in Italy. Siena, Toscana; 53047
ª Turn into Viale Marconi and take This charming village has an EAT AND DRINK
SS71 towards Chiusi, left on SP146. At impressive castle (summer: open daily ORVIETO
the roundabout turn back and then till late; restricted hours in winter) that Trattoria del Moro Aronne moderate
right towards Chiusi on SP49 and left provides a historical focal point as This central family-run trattoria offers
at SS321. Park on the way into town. well as great countryside views. The home-style dishes. Try the carbonara di
streets and houses behind the main fave e baffo, an outstanding pasta dish
5 Cetona square still retain their medieval form with a sauce of pureed fava beans.
Siena, Toscana; 53040 and atmosphere, and parts of the Via S. Leonardo 7, 05018; 0763 342
763; www.trattoriadelmoro.info
The first impression of Cetona is of village walls have been imaginatively
the large rectangular square, Piazza incorporated into private housing. FICULLE
Garibaldi, which seems too large and Southern Tuscany was heavily Le Fontane inexpensive–moderate
too modern for a medieval village. populated by the Etruscans and the An unpretentious pizzeria and modest
But it was the vision of one man, Museo Civico Archeologico (Via Roma country trattoria that offers crisp pizzas
and large plates of traditional food.
Gian Luigi Vitelli, who was made 24; open daily) has some extraordinary Strada Fontane 11, Ficulle 05016; 0763
Marquis of Cetona in 1556 by Cosimo and beautifully presented finds. 86512; www.hotelrilarosi.it; closed Mon
I de Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. ª Head north on SP19 onto SS146 to MONTELEONE D’ORVIETO
Montepulciano. Turn right on SP17 and
Below left View from the pretty terraces of immediately left into Via di San Pietro La Tana del Gufo moderate
Enjoy wood-fired pizza and carne alla
Cetona Below Etruscan fresco in the Museo and park in the dedicated parking areas. brace (meat cooked on the open fire)
Civico Archeologico, Sarteano in a modest, homely atmosphere.
Alternative travel Via Sandro Pertini 47, 05017; 0763 834
Enjoy a touch of nostalgia with a 756; www.latanadelgufo.com
drive around the gentle hills of CITTÀ DELLA PIEVE
Umbria and Tuscany in true Italian Ristorante Zafferano expensive
style in a Fiat 500, or on a classic Part of Hotel Vannucci, this elegant,
Vespa hired from Slow Hills (Via restaurant serves superb traditional
XXV 33, Cetona, 53040; 340 354 cuisine with a contemporary twist.
1996; www.slowhills.com). Via Vanni 1, 06062; 0578 298 063;
Or leave the wheels behind and www.hotel-vannucci.com; closed Wed
explore the gorgeous countryside & Oct–Apr
on a horse with Wild Horse (Strada
delle Piane, Fraz. San Lorenzo, SARTEANO
Monteleone d’Orvieto 05017; 3485 Osteria da Gagliano inexpensive
286169; www.maneggiowildhorse.it), A delightful small, cosy tavern with a
who can organize treks and lessons seasonal menu with local produce.
for riders of all abilities. Via Roma 5, 53047; 0578 268 022;
closed Tue, booking advised
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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