Page 205 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 20: Umbrian Hills, Tuscan Valleys 203

9 Castelmuzio
Siena, Toscana; 53020
A living museum, this well-preserved
medieval village, called “il Castello” by
the locals, retains the typical structure
of a fortified castle encircled by walls
and bastions. There are a few shops
inside the main gate and a single
bar/pizzeria under the bell tower
in the central piazza.
ª Leave northwest on Viale della
Rimembranza. At the stop, turn left on Above left Cycling in the countryside around
Via di Circonvallazione and then right q Trequanda Pienza Above The chequerboard façade of
on Via Umberto I. Park on the right. Siena, Toscana; 53020 the Chiesa SS Pietro e Andrea, Trequanda
This sleepy village is even quieter when Below left Narrow street in the medieval
the central bar, La Torre, is closed (Tue centre of Montisi
in winter), but it is a pleasant stop and
home to the extraordinary Chiesa SS
Pietro e Andrea. Founded in 1327, this ACTIVITIES IN MONTISI
single-naved Romanesque-Gothic It is hard to beat floating over the
church has a bizarre chequerboard scenic fields and towns of the Crete
façade of travertine marble and local Senesi in a hot-air balloon while
tufa, and contains a fresco, The sipping a glass of chilled prosecco. To
have a go at this pleasurable activity,
Ascension, said to be by Sodoma. contact Ballooning in Tuscany (338
ª Head east to SP38 and turn left to 146 2994; www.ballooningintuscany.
Sinalunga. At the stop on SS326 follow com). Flights leave from Montisi.
indications to Siena Sinalunga, then
turn right to Lucignano on SP11c. Park EAT AND DRINK
off Via di Circonvallazione.
MONTEPULCIANO
w Lucignano Osteria Acquacheta moderate
Arezzo, Toscana; 52045 This plain vaulted room offers simple
0 Montisi This pretty place is a fine example of food in a great Tuscan dining experience.
Via del Teatro 22, 53045; 0578 717 086;
Siena, Toscana; 53020 medieval town planning, with walls www.acquacheta.eu; book ahead
This vibrant village, coiled around an and roads in concentric circles. Enter
ancient castle keep, dates back to the through Porta di San Giusto and the PIENZA
Etruscans, although much of what’s road to the north, now Via Roma, was La Buca delle Fate moderate
visible was built during the height where the poor lived; noble families A busy trattoria serving home-made
pasta and ragù, wild boar, Tuscan
of the Sienese Republic (14th–16th built their homes along the sunnier steaks and delicious cakes.
century). Montisi has attracted a lively road to the south. Up against the Corso il Rossellino 38/a, 53026; 0578
creative community over the years, walls stands the solid Torre del 748 448; closed Mon
and many artists offer drawing or Cassero. At the heart of town, the MONTISI
painting classes. The 13th-century Collegiata di San Michele Arcangelo da Roberto
Castello di Montisi, at the top of the (1582), the 13th-century Chiesa di This delightful friendly restaurant with
village, houses a small music academy San Francisco with its striped Gothic a garden serves food prepared with
which puts on summer concerts. façade and the 12th-century Palazzo care in a relaxed, unfussy atmosphere.
ª Exit town and take SP38 left to Pretorio, seat of the town council, Via Umberto 3, 53020; 0577 845 159;
Trequanda. Park in Piazzale Cacciaconti. formed a nucleus of religious and www.tavernamontisi.com
political power. The Palazzo Pretorio TREQUANDA
The sheep’s cheese of Pienza houses the Museo Civico (closed Tue) Conte Matto moderate–expensive
The wild herbs of the Val d’Orcia are containing the 14th-century silver, Enjoy the terrace and excellent food –
said to give the distinct flavour to the gilded copper and enamel reliquary, try the gourmet taster menu with wild
cheese made from Sardinian sheep’s the Albero di Lucignano (Tree of Life). boar with chocolate and duck ragù.
milk: Pecorino di Pienza. It’s lovely ª Head east on Via Procacci/SP28 Via Taverne 40, 53020; 0577 662 079;
www.contematto.it; closed Tue
with slices of crisp pear and can be through Foiano and take a slight
aged in hazelnut leaves or straw and LUCIGNANO
flavoured with truffle. Fresco (fresh) right at SP31 (over the motorway), Il Goccino moderate
cheese is slightly soft; semi stagionato following the signs to Cortona. On Intimate, traditional restaurant with
(part-aged) and stagionato (aged) SS71, pass through Camjocia centre, good wines and a terrace with a view.
are richer in colour and flavour. then go uphill on SP34. Park off Via Via Matteotti 90, 52046; 0575 836 707;
Mura del Mercato. www.ilgoccino.it; closed Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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