Page 202 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

200 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Above Colourful flower-filled balcony in
Sarteano Above centre View straight out of 1 Orvieto Roma 50), started in 1834, and nearby
a Renaissance painting, near Città della Pieve Terni, Umbria; 05018 Vetro In (Corso della Rinascita 14) is the
Above right Perugino’s Adoration of the Magi, Set on a huge slab of tufa, Orvieto was stained-glass workshop of Michela
Città della Pieve colonized nine centuries before Christ Marilena. The medieval complex of
and flourished in the Etruscan period Castel Maggiore is explored via a
GETTING TO ORVIETO
as Velzna. After the Romans destroyed labyrinth of staircases and alleys.
From A1 Autostrada Rome–Florence, it in 264 BC, the town didn’t revive until ª Head north on SS71 to Monteleone
take the Orvieto exit, keeping right to the medieval period, when it became d’Orvieto. Take a slight left at Via Roma
stay on SS205. At roundabout, take 2nd the residence of popes. Etruscan and park in Piazzale Marconi.
exit onto Via Angelo Costanzi, then fork
left onto Strada della Stazione. Park in finds and medieval and Renaissance
Piazza Cavour. art and architecture make Orvieto a 3 Monteleone d’Orvieto
compelling place to visit. The startling Terni, Umbria; 05017
travertine-and-basalt striped Duomo, Founded in 1052 as a feudal castle to
WHERE TO STAY
Cattedrale dell’Assunta, has an Italian- defend the northern boundaries of
ORVIETO Gothic façade with a large rose Orvieto, this quiet castellated village
Hotel Corso Orvieto inexpensive window, exquisite reliefs, gold tiles has superb views from its medieval
Value-for-money hotel in the historic and bronzes. Begun in 1290 from walls. Enter it through the medieval
centre with nice rooms and helpful staff. plans by Arnolfo di Cambio, the Porta Nord, rebuilt in 1848, and take
Corso Cavour 339, 05018; 0763 342 building took 300 years to finish. Inside Corso Vittorio Emanuele II to the
020; www.hotelcorso.net is Luca Signorelli’s (c.1445–1523) The village centre and Piazza Pietro
Palazzo Piccolomini moderate Last Judgement in the Cappella di San Bilancini, home to the handsome
This fine, centrally located 16th-century Brizio (open daily), the finest fresco cycle 1888 Torre dell’Orologio (clock tower)
renovated palazzo was once the home of the Renaissance. The superb Faina and the medieval town well. Via
of the papal Piccolomini family.
Piazza Ranieri 36, 05018; 0763 341 743; Archaeological and Civic Museum della Ripa, above the western wall,
www.palazzopiccolomini.it (open daily), opposite the Duomo, has gives views across the Val di Chiana
a fine collection of Etruscan art. Nearby, and Monte Cetona.
MONTELEONE D’ORVIETO explore Orvieto’s underground city ª Head north on Via Crocifisso, then
Agriturismo I Gergoni inexpensive
These self-catering houses have plenty (0763 344891; www.orvietounderground.it; left at SS/SP71 to Città della Pieve. Turn
for the sporting minded: bike hire and Mar–Jan: open daily; Feb: weekends only), right at Via Beato Giacomo Villa, then
archery, horse-riding, canoeing and golf. first excavated by the Etruscans. right and park on the road.
Vocabolo Gergone 3, 05017; 0763 617 ª Descend from the rock (rupe) to Via
317; www.igergoni.it Angelo Costanzi at Orvieto Scalo, taking
CITTÀ DELLA PIEVE third exit at roundabout onto SS71. At
Campogrande inexpensive Ficulle, park to right of the main road.
A pleasant country B&B on the road
to Città della Pieve with three stylish 2 Ficulle
suites, one with disabled access. Terni, Umbria; 05016
Campogrande 1, 06062; 0578 298 989
Strung along a ridge between two
CETONA citadels, this tiny village dates back to
La Locanda di Cetona moderate when the Romans established the
This charming inn has the advantages outpost Castrum Ficulensis (from the
of being on the central piazza, with Latin figulus, or potter). Craftsmen still
friendly hosts and comfortable rooms.
Piazza Balestrieri 4/5/6, 53040; 0578 inhabit the village – near its southern
237 075; www.locandadicetona.com entrance, Porta del Sole, is the family-
run pottery of Fabio Fattorini (Via
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

200-205_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 200 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont