Page 207 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 20: Umbrian Hills, Tuscan Valleys 205

Far left The 12th-century Romanesque Santa
Maria della Pieve, Arezzo Left View of
Castiglion Fiorentino and the Val Chiana
Below Beautiful frescoes inside the Basilica di
San Francesco, Arezzo

EAT AND DRINK
CORTONA
La Bucaccia moderate
In ancient cellars in the heart of town,
this serves traditional cuisine – chestnut
ravioli, wild boar – with good wines, too.
Via Ghibellina 17, 52044; 0575 606 039;
www.labucaccia.it; closed Mon
leads to Porta Colonia and the car the romantic-looking 10th-century Preludio expensive
park beyond. Turn right into Via Maffei, Castello di Monticchio (not open). Centrally located restaurant set
a steep street lined with old residences ª Head west on SP40, then right on in a grand palazzo serving elegant
and innovative Tuscan dishes.
and with only light pedestrian traffic. SS71, then SS73 to the centre. At the Via Guelfa 11, 52044; 0575 630 104;
The road runs up to the Church of next roundabout take the 3rd exit on www.ilpreludio.net; book ahead
San Francesco (open daily), built in Viale don Minzoni and carry on
1245 by Brother Elias, St Francis’ right- toward Bibbiena. On Via Amendola AREZZO
hand man. The simple façade reflects turn right at the round about on Via Il Saraceno moderate
A cosy restaurant, famous for its rich
the Franciscan rejection of wealth. Sette Ponti and follow signs to Pietri and hearty food – thick Tuscan soups,
Inside there is a painting by local park. Take escalator to historic centre. steaks and roast meats and tiramisù.
master Pietro Berrettini (1596–1669). Via Giuseppe Mazzini 6, 52100; 0575
Follow Via Maffei downhill to Porta t Arezzo 27644; www.ilsaraceno.com
Berarda 8. From here, turn right, Arezzo, Toscana; 52100 Trattoria La Lancia d’Oro moderate
and return down to Piazza Garibaldi. A wealthy, bustling town, Arezzo has Marzia and Maurizio host a bustling
ª Follow signs to Arezzo, on SS71, turn been an important commercial centre and happy restaurant with excellent
mains and desserts. Outdoor tables are
right to Castiglion Fiorentino. Follow since Roman times. It has a beautiful best on the day of the antique market.
signs to the centre and park in the big medieval heart, whose highlight is Piazza Grande 19 (Logge Vasari), 52100;
park at the end of the ascending street. Piero della Francesca’s 15th-century 0575 21033; www.loggevasari.it
frescoes, Legend of the True Cross,
r Castiglion Fiorentino in the apse of the Basilica di San
Arezzo, Toscana; 52043 Francesco (open daily; tickets: 0575
Porta Fiorentina, well above the 352727). The Gothic Duomo houses a
modern town and train station, leads lovely fresco of Mary Magdalene (left
to the historic centre and the Piazza of the main altar) also by Piero. The
del Municipio with its 16th century main pedestrian street, Corso Italia
nine-arched loggia designed by runs directly down the hill to the
Vasari over a balcony with excellent Romanesque Santa Maria della Pieve
views. Up past the Palazzo Comunale and campanile with double mullion
are the ruins of the fortress, Il Cassero windows. Behind this is the beautiful
(1347). The town’s youth gather Piazza Grande, venue of the medieval
around Piazza Garibaldi on summer pageant of the Giostra del Saraceno
nights. To the south of town stands and a monthly antiques market.

DAY TRIP OPTIONS From Orvieto, take SS71 to Ficulle and From Cortona, take SP31 and SP28 to
Obvious themes here are Etruscans, Monteleone d’Orvieto. At Chiusi, take Lucignano, take SP25 to SP327, then
which will appeal to families, SS146, then SS476 to Sarteano. Return SS73 to Arezzo. Return to start on SS71.
Renaissance art and cheese and wine. via A1 if in a hurry, or retrace route. A rich palate
Etruscan treasures Renaissance genius Using Montepulciano 7 as a base,
Orvieto 1 has a superb Etruscan At Cortona e, see Museo Diocesano’s arrange a wine tour with the tourist
museum and ancient tunnels. Pretty religious art and explore the town. office, then set off to Pienza 8 to
Ficulle 2, a Roman village, has a good Drive to Lucignano w for lunch taste the best of its famous Pecorino
castle to explore. Enjoy pizza in walled and to see the Tree of Life. Then it’s cheese. Return for a Chianina steak,
Monteleone d’Orvieto 3, then on to off to Arezzo for Piero della Francesca’s more fine wine and a semifreddo.
Sarteano 6 for more Etruscan finds. sublime frescoes (book in advance). Take SS146 Montepulciano to Pienza.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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