Page 223 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 22: Lands of Myth and Legend 221

Left The pleasant lake resort of Piediluco,
a good place for watersports Below Fountain
in Piazza VII Aprile, Leonessa

EAT AND DRINK
RIETI
Bistrot moderate
Book ahead for this small and stylish,
ª Return to SS471 north, then turn 15th-century frescoes. There’s no real classic “Slow Food” restaurant.
left (west) at the large junction. Drive piazza, but footpaths and small parks Piazza San Rufo 25, 02100; 0746 498
on SP521 to the crossroad with SS79 provide good vantage points. 798; closed Oct, Sun & Mon
and follow signs on the right to Labro Excellent climatic conditions – the Trattoria Tito moderate
on SP5. Park near the town entrance. absence of wind and currents – Typical trattoria serving home-made
make the lake an ideal spot for water- pastas and hearty meals, with a
4 Labro sports and it is home to the National comprehensive wine list.
Via San Rufo 5, 02100; 0746 201
Rieti, Lazio; 02010 Rowing Centre (www.canottaggio.org). 202; www.trattoriatito.com
This beautifully restored little town, On the east side of town, there is a
clinging tightly to its steep conical lido, where small boats and canoes TERMINILLO
hill, still keeps watch over the road can be hired. Or, opposite the Trattoria Sfizi di Vini moderate
below, which it was built to control. di Marilù, there is a kiosk where visitors Bright and busy little wine bar/trattoria
on the main square of the village. Best
One of many fortified settlements in can take a scenic lake tour or hire a to book during summer.
the area established in the 10th and boat (0744 369 085; www.piediluco.eu). Piazzale Pian de Valli 39, 02017; 334
11th centuries, Labro was the seat of ª Return to SS79 and carry on to 307 3575; www.terminillo.org/
the Nobili family, who controlled much marmore and Papigno, then turn right ristorantesfizidivini
of the region and built the castle. The for Cascate Inferiore, then right again LEONESSA
town’s narrow alleys and stairways are on SR209. Stop by the road or enter Trattoria Alesse inexpensive
paved with rough stone, and the castle the park a short distance further on. Small, family-run eatery on main street
is inhabited by the Nobili-Vitelleschi, serving traditional local foods.
descendants of its original occupants 6 Cascata delle Marmore Corso San Giuseppe 61, 02016; 0746
(open for visits or tours: 0746 636 020). Terni, Umbria; 05100 922 130; closed Thu
ª Head back to SP5, turn right into The Roman consul Manlius Curius Leon d’Oro moderate
SS79 towards Piediluco. Follow signs Dentatus created this astonishing Right on the central piazza, this offers
into town to the parking. man-made cataract more than 2,000 a classic menu with a Roman influence.
Corso San Giuseppe 120, 02016; 0746
years ago. As a way of draining the 923 320; closed Mon
The Legend of the Falls malarial plain of Rieti, in 271 BC a
According to legend, the beautiful channel was cut through the rock to PIEDILUCO
nymph Nera, from the valley, fell in allow the River Velino to flow down Trattoria da Marilù moderate
love with the shepherd Velino, from to the River Nera, in three distinct Enjoy freshwater salmon from the lake
the plains above. But the all- stages, creating the highest waterfall on the terrace – unforgettable.
powerful goddess Juno disapproved in Europe (165 m/541 ft). Its rampant Corso Raniero Salvati 3, 05038; 0744
and turned her into a river, now 368 559; www.trattoriadamarilu.com;
called the Nera. The distraught energy is now harnessed to provide closed Wed
Velino threw himself off the cliffs electricity, and the falls are turned on
and turned into a waterfall to join and off twice a day. Marmore is little
his love in an eternal watery union. more than a railway siding, but the
steep path to the summit of the falls
affords great views of the cascade
5 Piediluco (alternatively, drive to the top via Terni).
Terni, Umbria; 05100 ª For Narni, head towards Terni,
Like a coastal resort, Piediluco is strung skirting the edge of town to the south
out along the shore of a lake with the to get on the Via Flaminia Ternana SS3
same name. Even though it is only two (follow signs to Narni at the many
streets the town has a large church, roundabouts). The road runs straight
St Francis (open daily), built in the into Narni. There is large parking area
13th century and decorated with to the right, and a lift into the town.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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